The Matterhorn Itinerary

Day 1 – Arrive in Chamonix

Arrive in Geneva and shuttle to Chamonix. We will spend the night in a hotel in Chamonix, France.

• Altitude: Chamonix: 1,035 m / 3,395 ft

Day 2 – Technical Skills on the Crouches Traverse

Meet at 7:00 a.m. for breakfast, orientation, and a complete equipment check. After picking up any last-minute supplies and grabbing lunch in downtown Chamonix, we head to the Aiguilles Rouges for alpine rock and snow climbing instruction.

We ride the Flégère cable car to nearly 2,400 meters, then hike approximately 40 minutes to the base of the Crouches Traverse. Throughout the day we’ll refine footwork, movement, and alpine climbing techniques before descending past Lac Blanc, where there’s an opportunity to stop for coffee or the daily tart at the mountain café.

This training day prepares climbers for the technical demands of the Matterhorn. Overnight in Chamonix.

• Altitudes: Chamonix: 1,035 m / 3,395 ft; Top of Flégère Cable Car: 2,400 m / 7,875 ft; Top of Crouches Traverse: 2,837 m / 9,307 ft
• Elevation Gain: 1,802 m / 5,912 ft
• Climbing Gain: 437 m / 1,433 ft
• Climbing Time: 6–7 hours

Day 3 – Technical Skills on Second Objective

Today we will focus on the skills learned yesterday and continue to build upon them as we prepare for our ascent of the Matterhorn. We have multiple options for different training climbs today and the guide team will adjust based on current conditions and what would best benefit the climbing team. Options include doing the Perrons traverse, Cosmiques Arete, and the Aiguille de L’M. All climbs will be a single day trip and the group will overnight in Chamonix, France.

• Altitude: Chamonix: 1,035 m / 3,395 ft
• Climbing Gain: varies based on climbing objective
• Climbing Time: 6.5-8 hours

Day 4 – Aiguille du Peigne (10,472 ft)

We will wake and depart Chamonix early in the morning aiming to catch the first tram car up towards the Aigullie du Midi. We will get off at the mid station and start our climb up to the Aiguille du Peigne (3192m). This iconic alpine rock route towers over Chamonix and was first climbed in 1906. The technical alpine rock ridge climb provides perfect practice for the Matterhorn at 10,000 ft to help with our acclimatization process. Once finished climbing, we will return to the Aigullie du Midi and take the tram up to the Torino Hut where we will spend the night.

• Altitudes: Chamonix: 1,000 m / 3,290 ft; Mid station of Aigullie du Midi: 2,310 m / 7,578 ft; Summit of Aiguille du Peigne: 3,192m / 10,472 ft; Torino Hut: 3,300 m / 10,827 ft
• Climbing Gain:  882 m / 2,893 ft
• Climbing Time: 6.5-8 hours

Day 5 – Traverse of the Entreves (11,824 ft)

We will wake up this morning leaving the hut and climb the famous Traverse of the Entreves. This is a technical rock traverse mixed with snow, ice, and rock. This striking traverse has been photographed for many outdoor catalogs and magazines. This technical alpine rock ridge is an excellent precursor to climbing the Matterhorn and situated at 3600m helps us acclimate. In the afternoon we descend to Chamonix. We will get our equipment ready for the Matterhorn and go over logistics for traveling to Zermatt.

Overnight in Chamonix, France.

• Altitudes: Torino Hut: 3,300 m / 10,827 ft; Traverse of Entreves: 3,604 m / 11,824 ft
• Climbing Gain: 500 m / 1,640 ft
• Climbing Time: 5-7 hours

Day 6 – Move to Hornli Hut

We start the day by traveling from Chamonix to Zermatt, either by train or by car. Travel time takes around 3.5 hours. Upon arriving in Zermatt, we will drop our luggage off at the hotel where we’ll stay on the way back from the Matterhorn. We depart Zermatt mid-day and approach the base of the Hornligrate Ridge, where we ride the Schwarzee lift. From the top of the lift we travel by foot on a main hiking path to the Hornli Hütte at 3,260 m. We will enjoy dinner and go to bed early in preparation for our ascent. In the afternoon, climbers and guides can possibly preview the lower section of the route, if conditions and time permit. This day can also be a potential weather day, then moving to the Hornli Hut on Day 7 and attempting the summit on Day 8.

• Altitudes: Zermatt altitude: 1,608 m / 5,275 ft; Top of Schwarzee lift: 2,575 m / 8,448 ft; Hornli Hütte: 3,260 m / 10,695 ft
• Elevation Gain: 1,652 m / 5,419 ft
• Climbing Gain: 685 m / 2,247 ft
• Climbing Time: 2- 2.5 hours walking on trail to the Hornli Hütte

Day 7 – Summit Attempt of The Matterhorn (14,691 ft)

Summit Day! Climb the Matterhorn via Hornligrate Ridge, just over 1,200 m (4,000 ft.). This is a technical ridge climb requiring a high level of physical energy and technical ability. The lower two-thirds of the route involve a rock climb and rock scramble. We will take our first long break at the historic Solvay emergency shelter (4,003 m). Climbers should plan on reaching this hut in 2–2.5 hours. With only 475 m until we reach the summit from the Solvay, the route steepens as we ascend the upper Mossey Slabs. The final 200 m of the Matterhorn is on steep snow and ice before attaining the final summit ridge. Our goal is to reach the summit in 4.5–5.5 hours and then reverse our path and descend to the Hornli Hut. We will spend the night back at the Hornli Hut or in Zermatt. Climbers should plan on an 8-11 hour day of intense high-cardio physical exercise.

• Altitudes: Hornli Hütte: 3,260 m / 10,695 ft; Solvay Emergency Shelter: 4,003 m / 13,133 ft; Summit of Matterhorn: 4,478 m / 14,691 ft
• Climbing Gain: 1,224 m / 4,015 ft
• Climbing Time: 4.5–5.5 hours to the summit and around 4.5–5.5 hours to descend to the Hornli Hütte. Total climbing time is typically between 9–11 hours, with 1–1.5 hours walking to the Schwarzee Hotel.

Day 8 – Alternate Summit Day & Return to Zermatt

Weather day or possible extra summit day on the Matterhorn. Over the years this day has proved to be beneficial to many of our climbers as we sometimes need to wait 12-24 hours for the weather to allow for a summit attempt on the Matterhorn. Overnight in Zermatt.

Day 9 – Depart Zermatt

Depart Zermatt via train to Geneva or Zurich. When booking flights, climbers should be aware the train ride is 4–4.5 hours. The first train departs around 5 a.m. Fly back to country of origin.

Itinerary subject to change based on weather, mountain conditions, and guide risk management decisions.