Mongolia – Mt. Khuiten

The Alpine Ascents Way

Our Mongolia expedition begins in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia’s vibrant capital—a city where Buddhist monasteries, broad avenues, and lively markets sit alongside monuments to the legendary Chinggis (Genghis) Khan and the country’s democratic spirit. We time our arrival to attend the UNESCO-recognized Naadam Festival, Mongolia’s premier cultural event featuring wrestling, horse racing, and archery that offers an unforgettable introduction to the country’s traditions and nomadic heritage.

After exploring Ulaanbaatar’s museums, markets, and historic sites, we board a flight west to the Altai region—a vast landscape of rolling steppes, rugged valleys, and distant snow-capped peaks. From there, we travel by jeep and then begin our trek into the remote heart of the Tavan Bogd Range, home to Mongolia’s highest summit, Mt. Khüiten (14,350 ft).

This expedition reflects the Alpine Ascents way: careful planning, cultural immersion, and expert guidance. Our team is led by legendary guide Vern Tejas, whose deep experience and steady leadership elevate both the climbing and cultural aspects of the trip. We balance acclimatization with exploration, including a preparatory climb of Malchin Peak and ample time to absorb the scenery and traditions of this wild region before moving to High Camp and our summit attempt. Alpine Ascents’ decades of Himalayan and global expedition experience ensure that every detail, from logistics to local engagement, enriches your journey into one of Asia’s most remote and inspiring landscapes.

History of Khuiten and Mongolia

• 1956 — Mt. Khüiten was first climbed by Russian Pieskariow and 12 Mongolians.
• 1967 — A joint Russian-Mongolian team completed a number of first ascents, including Malcyzn Chajchan and Birkut Peak.
• 1992 — E. Webster, J. Freeman Atwood, and L. Griffin pioneered a new route on Khuiten’s South Ridge.

Most of Mongolia’s history is composed of the ebb and flow of different factions conquering parts of what is modern-day Mongolia. The great Mongolian Empire of Chinggis Khan and family reached its height in 1280 A.D. and is considered the largest land empire in world history. More recently, the Russians and Chinese have traded off dominating Mongolia, with a democratic government elected in 1991. This new government is credited with increasing tourism, which is quickly becoming a significant element of the Mongolian economy. Even with its tumultuous history, the Mongolian people have maintained an incredible amount of national pride and are extremely hospitable by nature.

Naadam Festival and Kazakh Region

Naadam Festival

Mongolia’s self-styled “Olympics” is a three-day festival that takes place in early July and coincides with the anniversary of the 1921 revolution. Naadam (“the three manly sports”) is a national holiday and celebration. Attendees watch competitions in archery, horseback riding, and Mongolia’s favorite sport, wrestling. Champions are treated as national heroes, with wrestling ranks known as champion, lion, elephant, and bird. Naadam opens with a huge parade, somewhat military-styled, with many soldiers dressing in Chinggis-era clothing. The festival is raucous, lively, and certainly the biggest celebration on the Mongolian calendar. By the third day, many of the locals have had a bit too much to drink, and day four is something of a national recovery day.

The Kazakhs of Western Mongolia

A good portion of our expedition takes place in Western Mongolia, home to ethnic Kazakhs. This region lies a few miles from the border of the Republic of Kazakhstan. The Kazakh people make up about 4.5% of Mongolia’s population, but they remain the dominant culture in the western province of Bayan-Ölgii. Like other parts of Mongolia, most of the population are semi-nomadic herders, living in gers* (tents) and raising sheep, yaks, and horses. The predominant religion is Islam, but the practice of Islam here takes on a more spiritual interpretation and is less socially conservative than in some Muslim nations. We would venture to say they are the most hospitable and giving people we have encountered.

Many of the Kazakh people are still ardent eagle hunters. In the winter they hunt with golden eagles. Capturing eagles as chicks, the Kazakh people train them to hunt fox, wolf, rabbit, and marmot. Most of the hunting is done in the fall, as the hunter releases the eagle and follows on horseback. Once the eagle grabs hold of a fox, the hunter must pry the eagle away from the catch in an attempt to save the fox pelt.

*Gers are traditional homes found throughout much of Mongolia. Made from felt and wood cross-hatching, these large, round shelters are moved with great ease. Each ger has a number of beds and a stove in the center where most of the cooking is done. The ceiling has a retractable roof that can open and close, weather permitting. Floors may remain uncovered so that you sit on grass or rugs. As the cold weather approaches, families move to more permanent mud-brick winter houses.

The heart of this expedition takes place in the western province of Bayan-Ölgii, in the Tavan Bogd Range. Geographically, much of the highlands are defined by green pastures, with fox, bear, lynx, and falcons inhabiting the lower regions. The Mongolian countryside possesses an array of indigenous flora and fauna, including yaks, horses, sheep, and Bactrian double-humped camels. Time and conditions permitting, we usually visit with nomads in their gers (traditional felt-covered nomadic homes) and falcon hunters.