Manaslu

Alpine Ascents History in the Himalaya

Alpine Ascents was founded with Himalayan climbing at its core. In the late 1980s, founder Todd Burleson began organizing expeditions to the region, laying the groundwork for what would become Alpine Ascents International. Our first commercial expeditions were on Ama Dablam and Mount Everest in the early 1990’s. Since those early expeditions, Alpine Ascents has become a leader in Himalayan mountaineering, earning a reputation for professional planning, exceptional guide leadership, and consistent results on the world’s highest peaks. Over more than three decades operating in Nepal and Tibet, we have guided climbers to the summits of iconic mountains including Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Shishapangma, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, and Manaslu.

Our history on Manaslu began with our first expedition in 2002, and today the mountain remains a core objective within our Himalayan program. Across multiple seasons, Alpine Ascents teams have built a strong and consistent record on Manaslu, with many expeditions achieving 100% summit success. What distinguishes Alpine Ascents in the Himalaya is not simply longevity, but the depth of experience gained across decades of operating on 8,000-meter peaks—experience that directly informs our approach to Manaslu today.

Recent 8,000-Meter Experience

2025: Team summit success on Everest, Lhotse, and Manaslu
2024: Team summit success on Everest and Manaslu
2023: Team summit success on Everest and Manaslu
2022: Team summit success on Everest, Lhotse, and Manaslu

Photo: Todd Burleson on Mount Everest, 1992

The Manaslu Region and History

Alpine Ascents has a long and deeply rooted history in the Himalaya that has allowed us to build enduring relationships with Sherpa families and mountain communities throughout the Manaslu region. These relationships shape every aspect of our expedition, from the lodges we stay in, to the people we work alongside, to the respect we bring to one of Nepal’s greatest peaks.

Long before modern guided expeditions, Manaslu captured the attention of early Himalayan explorers. In 1950, British mountaineer H.W. Tilman conducted a reconnaissance of the mountain, identifying potential routes and helping spark international interest. Throughout the early 1950s, several Japanese expeditions attempted the peak but were repeatedly turned back by avalanches and unstable snow conditions— an early reminder of Manaslu’s seriousness. Toshio Imanishi and Sherpa Gyalzen Norbu finally summited the mountain in 1956, marking its first ascent and cementing Manaslu’s place in Himalayan climbing history.

Today, the approach to Manaslu travels through the remote and culturally rich Nubri and Tsum valleys, where Tibetan Buddhist traditions remain deeply woven into daily life. Mani walls, prayer flags, monasteries, and stone villages line the trail, offering climbers a rare opportunity to experience a region far less traveled than the Everest corridor. Along the trek, our group stays in trusted, family-run Sherpa teahouses, many of which we return to year after year. While accommodations are simple by Western standards, they are clean, welcoming, and centered around warmth, hospitality, and connection—often with evenings spent gathered around a stove sharing meals, tea, and conversation with local hosts.

The Alpine Ascents Way

Our approach to Manaslu is shaped by decades of experience on 8,000-meter peaks and a clear understanding of what leads to strong, well-timed summit bids. Rather than operating multiple parallel teams, we run one unified, fully guided expedition, allowing for consistent leadership, shared objectives, and thoughtful coordination from Base Camp to the upper mountain. This structure supports  efficient logistics and a measured pace— key ingredients for success on Manaslu.

We build our teams intentionally by carefully screening climbers and employing Sherpa staff who represent some of the most experienced mountain professionals in Nepal, many of whom have long-standing relationships with Alpine Ascents. We believe climbers, guides, and Sherpa working toward a common goal—rather than operating independently—make better decisions and move more effectively in the high-altitude environment. This philosophy extends to summit strategy, where patience and timing take precedence over rushing into marginal conditions or crowded windows.

On Manaslu, decisions made high on the mountain are rarely simple. Questions about weather trends, turnaround timing, oxygen usage, pacing, and individual strength require experienced judgment and real-time assessment. Senior guides and a strong Sherpa team alongside you helps reduce uncertainty and prevent both premature retreats and unnecessary exposure to deteriorating conditions.

Our acclimatization strategy reflects this same philosophy. We build flexibility into our itinerary, move methodically through the camps, and emphasize rest and efficiency over speed. Our Base Camp is designed for comfort and recovery, featuring quality four-season tents, organized communal and dining spaces, and a robust kitchen that supports climbers’ recovery at altitude. At High Camp, climbers use supplemental oxygen strategically while sleeping, supporting performance at extreme altitude on the summit push.

The result is an expedition that feels deliberate, well-supported, and cohesive. This is the Alpine Ascents way on Manaslu: a professional, team-oriented approach that prioritizes preparation, smart decision-making, and respect for the mountain, while giving qualified climbers the best possible framework for a successful ascent.

Manaslu Climbing Route

Alpine Ascents’ Manaslu expedition follows the Standard Route on the Northeast Face, beginning with a scenic trek through the Manaslu region’s Nubri Valley to the village of Samagaon. From here, approaching Base Camp is relatively quick for an 8,000-meter peak. It includes an all-day hike past glacial streams and alpine terrain to our camp below the mountain’s northeast flank.

From Base Camp, we climb in classic Himalayan expedition style, establishing four camps on the Northeast Face and using rotations up and down the route to acclimatize and prepare for the summit push. The lower mountain consists primarily of moderate-angled snow slopes, with steeper rolls and short crux sections as climbers gain elevation to camp (18,000 feet/15,500 meters).

Above Camp 1, the route steepens and becomes more complex as it threads through glaciated terrain and broken ice features. Fixed ropes are used extensively between camps and some sections may require ladders as the route nears Camp 2 (20,500 feet/6,250 meters).

Above Camp 2, the terrain gradually steepens as the route climbs through glaciated slopes and rolling ice features. The climb to Camp 3 (22,300 feet/6,800 meters) undulates over broad snowfields and glacial bulges, with several steeper sections typically supported by fixed ropes. While moderate in technicality, this section requires steady pacing and efficient movement as altitude begins to take a greater toll.

From Camp 3, the route becomes more sustained and demanding. The climb to Camp 4 (24,450 feet/7,450 meters) follows a long, continuous ascent on snow and ice, with fewer breaks in angle. This stage is physically and mentally demanding, and we focus on arriving at Camp 4 with enough energy to rest, refuel, and prepare for the summit push.

Summit day begins with an alpine start, often in the pre-dawn hours. The initial portion of the climb follows moderate snow slopes before transitioning onto a long traverse across a high plateau. From there, the route doglegs upward onto the more exposed, steeper summit ridge where fixed lines help climbers manage the terrain and maintain efficiency.

The final section passes a false summit before continuing along an exposed ridge to the true summit of Manaslu (26,781 feet/8,163 meters). Standing atop the world’s eighth-highest mountain offers sweeping views across the Himalaya and a powerful sense of achievement.

After summiting, climbers descend carefully back to Camp 4 for a well-earned rest. When conditions allow, the team retraces their route down the mountain, often descending all the way back to Base Camp within two days of the summit—bringing the expedition full circle in classic Himalayan style.