6 Day Baker Mountaineering Course Itinerary

Day 1

We begin the course with a 6:30 a.m. orientation and gear check at our Seattle office. Developing mountaineering skills starts with having the proper equipment, clothing, and nutrition. Guides will review gear, discuss current weather conditions, and fit rental gear before departing for Mount Baker. We usually climb the Easton Glacier route on this course, but may pivot to the Coleman-Deming Glacier route if conditions require.

From the trailhead, we hike through old-growth forest and subalpine meadows before emerging into the alpine landscape surrounding Mount Baker. By late afternoon, we establish camp at approximately 6,000 feet, where students begin their learning with camp setup, snow melting, backcountry cooking, and Leave No Trace practices.

Skills Covered:

• Equipment selection and fit
• Weather and conditions assessment
• Mountain travel with a loaded pack
• Camp setup and organization
• Cold-weather personal maintenance
• Hydration and snow-melting techniques
• Leave No Trace principles

Day 2

Today’s classroom is the glacier. We begin by developing efficient movement on snow, learning crampon techniques, pacing, and footwork before progressing to ice axe use and self-arrest. These foundational skills are practiced repeatedly and become the basis for safe travel throughout the course.

In the afternoon, instruction shifts to the technical systems of glacier travel. Students learn essential knots, prussiks, and rope management before putting those skills into practice on a glacier tour. Traveling among towering seracs and winding crevasses, guides emphasize communication, route finding, rope spacing, and recognizing objective hazards.

Skills Covered:

• Efficient snow travel
• Crampon techniques
• Ice axe use and self-arrest
• Essential knots & hitches
• Rope management
• Glacier rope team travel
• Communication and hazard assessment

Day 3

Today introduces the anchor systems used in alpine climbing and glacier travel. Students learn to construct a variety of snow and ice anchors for belaying, rappelling, running protection, and rescue scenarios before putting each system to the test. (Yes, this is the day you’ll discover just how much you can trust a well-built snow anchor.)

The afternoon is spent belaying, rappelling, and managing ropes while learning how hauling systems and mechanical advantage are used in mountaineering. These techniques form the foundation for the crevasse rescue systems students will learn later in the course, while building confidence on steeper terrain.

Skills Covered:

• Snow and ice anchor construction
• Anchor evaluation and testing
• Belaying techniques
• Rappelling systems
• Running protection
• Mechanical advantage concepts
• Hauling systems

Day 4

Today’s focus is crevasse rescue—the culmination of the rope, anchor, and hauling systems developed over the previous three days. Students begin with “dry” practice on the glacier before progressing to realistic rescue scenarios in a crevasse. Working as rope teams, participants learn to arrest a crevasse fall, construct secure rescue anchors, and execute a standard 3:1 Z-pulley rescue system. Guides will demonstrate additional rescue techniques for smaller rope teams and discuss when each system is most appropriate.

Students also have the exciting opportunity to climb out of a crevasse using prussiks, gaining firsthand experience with the physical and technical demands of self-rescue. Although crevasses demand careful risk management, this is often one of the most memorable and rewarding days of the course.

Skills Covered:

• Crevasse fall arrest
• Rescue anchor construction
• 3:1 Z-pulley rescue
• Two-person rescue concepts
• Prussiking and self-rescue
• Team communication
• Glacier hazard management

Day 5

With a strong technical foundation established, it’s time to put those skills into practice on Mount Baker. Depending on weather and mountain conditions, guides will either lead a summit attempt on Day 5 or establish a higher glacier camp in preparation for a summit attempt. Both options reinforce expedition planning while allowing the team to adapt to changing conditions.

Traveling through a maze of crevasses, students refine rope team travel, route finding, hazard assessment, and communication. Whether standing on the summit or preparing for the following day’s ascent, this demanding day brings together everything learned throughout the course while offering sweeping views across the North Cascades.

Skills Covered:

• Rope team efficiency
• Summit planning and preparation
• Route finding
• Hazard assessment
• Expedition pacing

Day 6

If weather delays the summit attempt, today provides another opportunity to climb. Otherwise, guides use the final instructional day to reinforce course concepts and introduce advanced topics such as steep snow climbing, advanced crampon techniques, altitude considerations, or additional rescue systems, depending on conditions and the interests of the group.

After breaking camp according to Leave No Trace principles, we descend through alpine meadows and old-growth forest before returning to the trailhead, and finally to Seattle. We recommend planning your travel home for the day after the course concludes.

Skills Covered:

• Summit execution (if applicable)
• Advanced crampon techniques
• Steep snow climbing
• Advanced rescue systems
• Navigation fundamentals
• Camp breakdown and Leave No Trace