Mount Rainier 4 Day Kautz Climb Itinerary

Day 0 – Gear Check and Orientation

Climbers are required to attend a gear check and orientation at the Alpine Ascents office in Seattle at 2:00 p.m. the afternoon before the trip begins. During this two-hour session, guides provide a climb overview, conduct a thorough gear check, review Leave No Trace (LNT) practices, and discuss the National Park Mission Statement.

Day 1 – Paradise to Wilson Glacier Bench (7,400 ft)

Meet at the Alpine Ascents office at 6:00 a.m. before driving to Mount Rainier National Park and meeting the remainder of the guide team. The climb begins at Paradise (5,400 ft.), following park trails to Glacier Vista for sweeping views of Mount Rainier, Mount Adams, and Mount St. Helens.

From Glacier Vista, the route descends onto the Nisqually Glacier, where climbers rope up before traversing the glacier and ascending the prominent snow chute known as the Fan. The day finishes with a climb along the west side of the Wilson Glacier to camp at approximately 7,400 feet, with guides providing climbing instruction throughout the day.

• Altitudes: Paradise (5,400 ft.) / Wilson Glacier Bench (7,400 ft.)
• Elevation Gain: 2,000 ft.
• Mileage: 3 miles
• Hiking Time: 4–6 hours

Day 2 – Wilson Glacier Bench to Camp Hazard (11,100 ft)

After breaking camp, the team ascends toward High Camp by climbing the Turtle snow slope and passing the Castle bivy sites. The impressive Kautz Icefall towers overhead as the route continues to Camp Hazard on the Wapowety Cleaver, the highest frequently used camp on Mount Rainier.

After establishing camp, climbers enjoy an early dinner before guides provide a detailed briefing for the following day’s summit climb.

• Altitudes: Wilson Glacier Bench (7,400 ft.) / Camp Hazard (11,100 ft.)
• Elevation Gain: 3,700 ft.
• Mileage: 2 miles
• Hiking Time: 4–6 hours

Day 3 – Camp Hazard to Columbia Crest (14,411 ft.) to Camp Hazard

Summit day begins before dawn with breakfast and an early departure from High Camp. The route includes a short rappel or lower from a rock step before traversing beneath the Kautz Ice Cliffs to the glacier. Climbers then ascend several steep snow or ice pitches on the Kautz Glacier, the technical crux of the climb, before reaching easier terrain higher on the mountain.

From there, the route continues across the Wapowety Cleaver and up moderate slopes to Columbia Crest, the true summit of Mount Rainier. After celebrating on the summit, the team retraces the route back to Camp Hazard for the night.

• Altitudes: Camp Hazard (11,100 ft.) / Columbia Crest (14,411 ft.)
• Elevation Change: 3,311 ft. ascent / 3,311 ft. descent
• Mileage: 2 miles up / 2 miles down
• Hiking Time: 6–8 hours up / 4–6 hours down

Day 4 – Camp Hazard to Paradise

The final day retraces the ascent route back to Paradise, descending from High Camp through the Wilson Glacier Bench and across the Nisqually Glacier before returning to the trailhead.

After changing out of climbing boots, the team returns to Seattle for a well-earned shower, dinner, and celebration.

• Altitudes: Camp Hazard (11,100 ft.) / Paradise (5,400 ft.)
• Elevation Loss: 5,700 ft.
• Mileage: 5 miles
• Hiking Time: 5–7 hours