Island Peak Planning
Island Peak (20,305FT / 6,189M) | NepalPaperwork
Please return the requested paperwork as soon as possible.
- Application
- Flight itinerary
- Legible copy of photo page of your passport
- Two passport sized photos
- Trip Evacuation Insurance (required)
Trip Insurance & Evacuation Coverage
Evacuation coverage is required for this trip. It’s worth noting that evacuation insurance for Island Peak climbers does not function as traditional insurance; one generally needs to contact the insurance company prior to evacuation, and the insurance agency will make payment to directly to those conducting the evacuation.
We also strongly recommend purchasing trip insurance. Even with the best planning, unexpected circumstances — such as an injury or family emergency — may prevent you from joining your trip.
For Nepal, if you are choosing an evacuation only plan, you will need to use the company Global Rescue from our recommended providers.
Trip Insurance Info (opens in new tab)Visa & Entry Requirements
You will need to obtain a visa either before the trip or upon arrival at the airport in Kathmandu. We recommend beforehand, if possible.
You must have a valid passport that does not expire for at least 6 months from the date of entry to Nepal. You must also have blank pages available in your passport.
You are responsible to determine other entry requirements for your passport/nationality. US citizens can consult the US State Department Website.
Visa Instructions
Each climber needs a copy of their climbing/trekking permit and hotel reservation to obtain a visa. This is true whether you are getting an e-visa, a visa on arrival, or obtaining a visa via the Embassy. Alpine Ascents will supply a copy of this permit and hotel confirmation as we approach the trip.
For those who obtain a visa upon arrival at the airport, you will need to have 2 passport photos ready. You can expedite the visa process by arriving at the airport with forms already completed using the online visa application process: https://online.nepalimmigration.gov.np/tourist-visa
Online Visa Instructions:
Only complete 15 days or less before departure
Select 90 day visa
Hotel: Yak and Yeti
Street number:1016
Street: Durbar Marg
Municipality: KTM
Ward: 1
District: 3
“Local address” is the same as hotel address
Meet Times & Transport
Flying to Kathmandu, Nepal
This climb begins and ends in Kathmandu, Nepal. For those arriving early or departing after the scheduled itinerary, we are happy to make hotel and airport transfer arrangements.
Upon Arrival: We will pick you up at the airport. Please look for an Alpine Ascents sign upon leaving the terminal. You may encounter individuals approaching to assist you with your luggage. We recommend declining their services and walking out to the pick-up area where you will find an Alpine Ascents representative, who you need not tip.
If you have issues at the airport, you can contact our local representative Jiban Ghimire at 977-985-103-5161.
Flight Recommendations
Your departure date from Nepal should be changeable, as our final return to Kathmandu is difficult to predict on such a long expedition.
If traveling through India, please be aware that the Indian government prohibits travelers from bringing satellite phones and two-way satellite messaging devices (such as a Garmin InReach) into the country. Failure to comply may result in confiscation, significant fines, arrest, or travel delays.
Lodging in Kathmandu
The scheduled hotel for this expedition is the historic Yak & Yeti. Alpine Ascents will make the initial hotel reservations. Climbers will be paired in rooms unless a single room is requested. Single Room Supplements are only available in Kathmandu; we cannot pre book private rooms in the Khumbu.
Hotel Yak & Yeti
P.O. Box. 1016, Durbar Marg, Kathmandu, Nepal
Tel: 977-1-4248999, 240520
Website: yakandyeti.com
Lodging on the Trek
For the lodging during our trek, we stay in Sherpa village tea houses—many of them remote—giving us a rare look into both traditional and monastic communities. While the environs are often primitive by western standards, they are balanced by the tremendous warmth of the Sherpa families. While we do our best to select comfortable lodges, the Khumbu is a remote area and accommodations/toilet conditions are very basic.
Gear List
Please refer to your Gear List:
Island Peak Gear List (opens in new tab)
You are required to bring every item on this list as described, so be as precise as possible when packing. We are happy to work closely with you on finding the proper gear.
If you plan to rent gear, your rental form must be submitted at least a month prior to expedition start date. Gear is also available for online purchase at the Alpine Ascents Gear Shop where our climbers will receive a discount. Email [email protected] with any gear questions.
Gear is difficult to buy in Kathmandu, so it is extremely important that you be fully outfitted before arrival.
Gear Lexicon
If you’re confused by items and/or language on the Gear List, we encourage you to refer to our Gear Guide for explanations on layering systems, differences between boots, etc.
Gear Guide (opens in new tab)
Other Resources
Below are articles written by veteran Alpine Ascents guides that you may find helpful in preparing and packing for your expedition.
Medications & Prescriptions for Mountain Climbing
Not on the Gear List, but in our Backpacks
Packing Tips
People generally take too much “stuff” rather than too little. Study each item before you pack it. Eliminate redundant items, extra changes of clothing, and excessive “nice to have” luxuries. You will benefit from traveling light because of the costs of excess baggage and because of the frequent loading and unloading of bags. Traveling light may be your key to summit success. Take everything on the required equipment list and little else.
Organizing for an Expedition to Island Peak
For an expedition of this scale, luggage can feel complicated. Please read through the following guide for smooth and efficient travel.
You need three different types of luggage for this trip:
- Climbing Backpack – 35-45 liter pack for carrying gear to basecamp and on the upper mountain.
- Large Duffel Bags – 1 of the biggest, burliest duffels available. Approximately 100-120 liters.
- Small Duffel – useful as a carry-on when traveling to Nepal, and for storing belongings at the hotel that you are not taking into the mountains.
Stage 1 – Travel to Nepal
Pack everything (except for a few items mentioned below) into your large duffels and check it in with your airline. We recommend packing your empty climbing pack inside one of these duffels.
Pack your small duffel as your carry-on, and remember any usual comfort items for international air travel. Staying relaxed prior to your expedition will contribute to your success on the climb!
Stage 2 – Trip Prep in Kathmandu
It’s nice to have a small selection of town clothes with you, suitable for touring the city, going out to dinner, etc. While in Kathmandu, we complete a thorough gear check and reorganize our luggage. Here’s how we pack:
- Small duffel – anything not coming into the mountains, like your town clothes. You’ll check this in with your hotel and it will be stored until you return.
- Trekking duffel – 1 large duffel of the gear you need at night while on the trek to basecamp. This duffel will be carried by yak, you will not have access to it while hiking during the day.
- Climbing pack – the gear you will carry on your back while trekking.
Stage 3 – Trek To Base Camp
During the trek to Base Camp, you’ll carry your climbing pack with everything you need for the day. Your trekking duffel will be transported separately by yak and will be waiting for you at each night’s lodge or teahouse.
Stage 4 – Climbing the Mountain
Once you arrive at Island Peak Base Camp, you will have access to all your gear except the small duffel of items left at our hotel in Kathmandu. Your guides will advise on what gear to pack for the climb.
Expenses
We recommend using a combination of cash and credit cards for meals in the city and extra expenses. We will make a recommendation on how much cash to bring prior to departure.
Credit cards are accepted at our hotel and in most restaurants. Smaller establishments do often accept credit cards, but charge a fee. We will work with you in Nepal to change money to Nepalese rupees for the trek and climb. It is best to change money at the Yak & Yeti hotel or an authorized exchange house in Kathmandu. Changing money at the airport is not recommended. We will organize this with our guide staff. Local currency can also be obtained at the local ATM.
Departure by Helicopter
It is possible to depart early from the trek at Dingboche by helicopter. The heli will take you to Lukla, where you can board an onward flight the same day to Kathmandu. This allows climbers to bypass the final 3-4 days of trekking down the valley. These flights can be booked in-country through your guide.
Typical cost from Dingboche to Lukla is $700, but depends on the number of passengers. Typical cost from Lukla to Kathmandu is $400, also based on the number of passengers.
Tipping
It is customary for Island Peak climbers to tip approximately $300 -$350 for the Sherpa support team. This amount is collected by the lead guide and distributed among the staff. Gratuities for Alpine Ascents guides are also greatly appreciated. As a general guideline, climbers may consider 10–15% of the total trip cost for the guide team. All gratuities are at your discretion and should reflect your experience, level of satisfaction, and budget.
Early Departure/Evacuation
If you need to leave the expedition early, you are responsible for all incurred expenses (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc). A comprehensive trip insurance plan is recommended, which can cover these costs in the event that they occur.
On the Mountain
Physiology Of Mountaineering
Dehydration, hypothermia, frostbite, and altitude illness are all important health conditions to be aware of while climbing. Please read our overview of these physical factors:
Physiology Of Mountaineering (opens in new tab)
Food & Water
We are aware of the potential monotony of expedition food and Alpine Ascents makes every effort to make meals a positive part of the climb. Our pre-planned meals use a large shipment of food from the US along with food purchased locally in Kathmandu. We take great care in our meal preparation, understanding the importance staying healthy, fueling effectively, and overall enjoyment. Climbers will often have the option of eating local food while on the trek to basecamp.
Alpine Ascents prepares all water by boiling. Climbers will fill water bottles at all meals. Some prefer to supplement this with bottled water which runs from $1- $3/bottle along the trekking route. We prefer that the number of bottles purchased during the expedition be kept to a minimum.
Health Tip
You may want to consult your physician for advice on treatments for gastrointestinal upsets that you may encounter on your trip. In the past, climbers have relied on antibiotics such as Ciprofloxacin. Your doctor may recommend medications such as Lomotil or Imodium to stop diarrhea, and Compazine to prevent nausea.
Leave No Trace
Alpine Ascents International practices Leave No Trace principles on all expeditions. We believe that given the proper information most people will do all they can to help protect and maintain the environment. Before your climb, please become familiar with Leave No Trace:
7 Principles of Leave No Trace
As guides, we spend time teaching the environmentally appropriate Leave No Trace principles and practices. There is nothing more rewarding than working hard to get high into the mountains, reaching a pristine campsite, witnessing incredible views, and having the feeling that no one has been there before.
