The Eiger Training

Mountain climbing is a very sport-specific activity and having the proper fitness is fundamental. Fit individuals like marathon runners and triathletes often still struggle on climbs, lacking the conditioning specific for mountaineering demands. The training information here will help you arrive prepared for the mountain. Most people will need to train for at least 4-6 months.

An effective training program for the Eiger should be primarily composed of endurance training with significant strength components as well. Your training should progress slowly and be modulated, incorporating progressively harder weeks with planned rest weeks to consolidate the training loads into fitness gains. The following tabs will help you construct an endurance and strength training program for yourself.
You may find the following resources helpful:

• Watch: “From Gym to Glacier: Train Smarter for the Mountains”
• Read:  “Is my Training Working?”

Most people will need to train specifically for their Alps climb of the Matterhorn for at least three to four months. During your training, you will need to progressively ramp up your hike time, distance, and elevation gain (at roughly 10% per week) to carefully and effectively build your trekking-specific conditioning. Trying to rush this will increase the risk of experiencing some sort of training injury and not being ready for your trip. Below are more details of how to incorporate these four priorities into your program.

t the end of this training program:

• Hike steadily for 5 to 7 hours at a time while carrying a backpack with 25 pounds.
• Recover from consecutive days of sustained physical effort and be prepared to climb again the following day.
• Remain physically and mentally strong throughout a demanding 10 to 12 hour summit day at high altitude.
• Move efficiently over steep and uneven terrain using balance, core strength, and flexibility.

Certain ascent rates are required for this climb. When hours are prolonged due to slow ascent times, climbers become fatigued, dehydrated, and have a greater chance of getting cold. This also puts the team at risk in rapidly changing weather on the mountain. It is a matter of risk management that climbers ascend at the rates stated below.

Training for the Uphill Athlete by Kilian Jornet, Steve House, and Scott Johnston

For female climbers, we recommend the following two books as supplementary reading:
ROAR and NEXT LEVEL by Stacy T. Sims, PhD

Personal trainers & sport specific training plans: Working with a personal trainer that is familiar with the demands of mountaineering and climbing is highly recommended. They can create personal training plans utilizing both indoor and outdoor locations with long range objectives and criteria. Personal trainers and training programs can help build a program based on your location, recognizing your access to fitness gyms and outdoor training. Sport specific training programs provide structured training for individuals to follow at home, the gym, and outside.

For customized training plans and coaching, contact Steve House and the team at Uphill Athlete.  Alpine Ascents climbers are eligible for a discount on Uphill Athlete training and coaching services to help prepare for their next objective. Please email Alpine Ascents to receive the discount code.

This is an extremely rigorous climb and being in strong physical condition is mandatory. Please note, the guide retains the right, at any point, to determine whether a climber is sufficiently fit to continue the climb.

The Eiger is a technical alpine rock, snow, and ice climb. This climb requires climbers to have previous experience rock climbing (5.7 grade) in boots and being comfortable climbing on steep firm snow and ice. Along with the technical level, summit day on the Eiger is an extremely physical day requiring climbers to be in excellent physical condition. Prior climbs such as, Rainier, Denali, and the Ecuador Volcanoes are good experience for the snow and ice portions. Climbers will also need to have alpine rock experience to be accepted to this program. The Matterhorn is a great climb to get climbers ready for the Eiger.

Please reach email or call us if you have specific questions about training and preparing for the Eiger.