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Vern Tejas

Senior Guide: International, Washington, Alaska
Vern Tejas

Vern is known for Denali’s first solo winter ascent, the first solo of Mt. Vinson (Antarctica’s highest), first winter ascent of Mt. Logan (Canada’s highest) and as lead guide for Col. Norman Vaughan’s first ascent of Mt. Vaughan in remote Antarctica. In 2000, Vern was named one of Alaska’s top 50 Athletes of the Century by Sports Illustrated and in 2012 was inducted into the Alaska Sports Hall of Fame. In addition to his fame in the extreme environments of Alaska, Greenland and Antarctica, Vernon’s success in guiding people to the summit is simply remarkable. Along with guiding numerous high altitude expeditions, Vern is a ten time summiteer of Everest and an avid adventure racer finishing 10th in 1999 and 13th in 2001 in the Eco-Challenge Race. Vern’s guided ascents are an extremely unique blend of his dynamic spirit, climbing expertise and guiding savvy, known throughout the guiding community. Recently Vern had outstanding success Mt. Vinson, Last Degree-South Pole, Denali, Elbrus (Europe’s highest) and has guided many of our Everest expeditions this century.  He has guided Vinson more than anyone. Notable among his accomplishments on the Seven Summits, Vern climbed and guided all 7 in 134 days (the current speed record), he has climbed all 7 at least 10 times. He also completed all 7 twice within one year. Vern is also the only person in the world to have completed “The Seventy Summits,” and first to guide Seven Summits and North and South Poles. With a guitar in hand and a smile on his face, Vernon treats everyone to the remarkable experience of life. See the Interview with Vern.

20-year

Take 5 with the Guide

Favorite childhood breakfast cereal
Frosted Flakes……They’re Grrrreat!

Guilty Pleasure
90% cocoa chocolate

Dream rope team / climbing partner for your dream climb?
K2 solo

If you could be stuck with anyone (past or present) at base camp for a week
BooBoo my cat

In another life I’d…
Live on mars and climb Mons Olympus……perhaps this one….

Significant Ascents

First person to climb Seven Summits 10 times
Mt Everest (10 guided summit ascents)
Denali (60 guided, 1st solo winter ascent, 1st paraglider descent, 14:50 speed ascent)
Elbrus (40 guided & speed 3:20 ascent from hut), 1st paraglider descent
Aconcagua (28 guided & 8:02 speed ascent)
Carstensz Pyramid (3 Guided, via Jungle route)
Vinson (43 guided & personal,1st solo ascent, 10:20 speed ascent, 1st paraglide descent)
Kilimanjaro (19 guided & 10:45 speed ascent)
Greenland (world’s northernmost mountain)
Mt. Hunter (first winter ascent), Alaska
Mt. Logan (first winter ascent), Canada
Mt. Blanc (3 guided & personal), Rainier (2 guided), Cho-oyu (1 guided)
Gasherbrum II
Chimborazo, Matterhorn, Kinabalu, Cotopaxi
Peru: Urus, Ishinca, Pisco
Nepal: Island Peak, Mera Peak
Kosiousko 1st paraglider descent

Significant Explorations

1st Traverse of Wrangell-St. Elias Range
Ski Mt. Guide Shackleton Traverse x 2
First Wheeled Crossing of Antarctica
Ski Guide Last Degree to South Pole x 2
Ski Guide Last Degree to North Pole
Scout Overland Traverse to South Pole

Kayak Guide Greece, Santorini and Crete

Certifications

Wilderness First Responder and CPR certified
20 year member AK Mountain Rescue
Avalanche Level 2

Awards & Recognition

Alaska Sports Hall of Fame
Life member American Alpine Club
Alaskan of the Year Governor’s Award
Sports Illustrated Top 50 Athletes Alaska
Eco-Challenge finisher 10th & 13th place
NPS Denali Pro Pin for Rescue
“Cover Boy” Alaska Magazine
15 year member USHPA (Paragliding)
Producer “Strummit from Summit” CD
Host for Food Network’s “Tasting Alaska”
Talent ESPN TV special “Surviving Denali”
Talent for National Geographic “Ultimate Survival Alaska”

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Denali, Alaska
Vinson Massif, Antarctica
Mount Rainier, Washington
Mount Everest, Nepal
Mount Baker, Washington
Shishapangma, Tibet
Antisana, Ecuador
Mount Baker, Washington
Island Peak, Nepal