Cascades Condition Report

Greetings follow climbers!

We are entering the final week of August and it sure feels like the seasons have shifted.  We’ve seen all types of weather over the past week, from thunderstorms to sunny skies, to hail, to stellar conditions. Our teams have been climbing as the weather allows and others have had to pause their summit attempts due to the weather.  We anticipate an unstable airmass with challenging forecasting ahead. With this weather pattern fluctuating between storms and sun, along with the shorter days of late summer, please make sure you bring all the required equipment on the gear list. Despite the cooler and wetter weather there are still wildfires burning in the Cascades and a section of Highway 20 is also currently closed, but climbers continue to access Washington Pass climbing via an alternate driving route up the eastern side of the state.  In addition, the Cascade River Road used to access Forbidden Peak and Boston Basin is still closed.

Koma Kulshan (Mount Baker) & North Cascades

Guide teams continue to note excellent climbing conditions on the mountain. Keeping up with recent themes, our latest 3 day Baker team had 100% success, in tune with other courses on the mountain like our 6 day mountaineering school. On Mt Shuksan, our teams recently climbed both the Fisher Chimney route and the Sulfide route up the mountain. Guides notes that on the Fisher Chimney the route was in substantially better condition than it has been in previous years. This may be due to the cold wet spring we had and ample snowfall in May. We have also had a team recently climb the West Ridge of Mt Stuart.  This rare gem in the heart of the Cascades is highly sought after and we are proud to have just completed guiding this route at a 1 climber to 1 guide ratio.

Tahoma (Rainier) Muir route

Not much has changed since our last post, and we’ve led another team to the summit of Rainier. Guides are reporting that the route remains in good climbing condition on the mountain. Attached here is our previous update, which continues to reflect the conditions we currently see: The Muir snowfield still has seasonal snow but is not icy. Once at Camp Muir, the route to high camp across the Cowlitz Glacier is straightforward, and all seasonal snow has melted from Cathedral Gap. Climbers are currently using the Disappointment Cleaver route to summit. Guides have noted that the route above the Cleaver is direct, with several adjuncts installed to assist climbers. A double ladder at 13,100 feet is providing an enjoyable climbing experience. Above the ladder, the route involves several switchbacks as it ascends the glacier to the summit rim. The route conditions can change periodically, and we have pre-scheduled route workers on the mountain to make necessary adjustments. For more information on factors affecting your ability to summit, please refer to our “Will I summit Rainier tab”.

Happy climbing!

We provide a weekly conditions report. Stay tuned for future updates.

Greeting fellow climbers!

The temperatures have shifted and it feels like we are finally past the hot summer days. Across the Cascades we are seeing temperatures and freezing levels on par with seasonal averages for this time of year.  Over the recent week a few storms have impacted the state which has helped reduce wildfire smoke in the area. There are still several large fires burning in Washington and unfortunately the Cascade River Road and Washington Pass are still closed due to an active fire.  Washington Pass and Mazama can be access by driving around the eastern side of the state.

Tahoma (Rainier) Muir route:

Our team successfully summited on August 16th, but the group that attempted to climb on August 18th impacted by a thunderstorm and inclement weather conditions that prevented a summit attempt. Current reports indicate that the climbing route is in good condition overall, with a direct path above high camp. On the first day of your climb we recommend wearing trail shoes until reaching the snow just above Pebble Creek. The Muir snowfield still has seasonal snow but is not icy. Once at Camp Muir, the route to high camp across the Cowlitz Glacier is straightforward, and all seasonal snow has melted from Cathedral Gap. Climbers are currently using the Disappointment Cleaver route to summit. Guides have noted that the route above the Cleaver is direct, with several adjuncts installed to assist climbers. A double ladder at 13,100 feet is providing an enjoyable climbing experience. Above the ladder, the route involves several switchbacks as it ascends the glacier to the summit rim. The route conditions can change periodically, and we have pre-scheduled route workers on the mountain to make necessary adjustments. For more information on factors affecting your ability to summit, please refer to our “Will I summit Rainier tab”.

Happy climbing!

We provide a weekly conditions report. Stay tuned for more updates!

Greetings follow climbers!

The third week of August is starting, and operations are in full swing with teams climbing across the Cascades and across the world! Our teams are checking in from Mt Olympus to Rainier to even Glacier Peak deep in the North Cascades. A cooling weather trend has set in this week, bringing more mild and seasonal temperatures to the Cascades. We saw temps in the 70’s in Seattle, and freezing levels fluctuating between 10K-13K in the mountains.  Despite several large wildfires in the Western US, the air quality in the Cascades has been in the “green” as the westerly flow has prevented the smoke from settling in the region. Currently a wildfire has closed access to Cascade River Road, which impacts all climbs that access Boston Basin, Eldorado, and Forbidden Peak.  A large fire has started near Mt Adams which is now closed for access. Finally, a section of Highway 20 is also currently closed, but climbers continue to access Washington Pass climbing via an alternate driving route up the eastern side of the state.

Koma Kulshan (Mount Baker) & North Cascades

Guide teams continue to report solid climbing conditions, and our teams are summiting daily.  Our Alpine Ascents Foundation trip, a fundraising climb that raised money for sherpa education, summited just a few days ago.  The Alpine Ascents Foundation climb donated 100% of proceeds to the Sherpa Education Fund, which has help provide access to better education opportunities in Nepal.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

Last week we wrapped up our final climbs on the Emmons and Kautz routes for 2024 and we look forward to returning to those routes in 2025.  If you’ve got your eye on one of those routes, please make sure you follow our newsletter as we will be announcing next season’s dates in September. You can sign up for our newsletter at the bottom of our homepage.We continue to climb on the Camp Muir route up the mountain, and our route has seen minimal change since last week. Climbers are wearing approach shoes and traveling on dry trail up to Pebble Creek. The current climbing route climbs the Disappointment Cleaver and then winds up a series of steep steps and a ladder crossing to 13,200. Our team summited today, and we expect it to stay in condition for the time being. We have guides up on the mountain working on the route performing “route work” to help maintain the route for guided climbers.

Lastly, with the warmer temperatures, guides at the gear check have been adjusting the required equipment list to match the current conditions. Please understand that the gear list is a tool for packing based on all weather conditions and upon arrival at the gear check, the guide might adjust based on the short-term forecast.

Happy climbing!

We provide a weekly conditions report. Stay tuned for future updates.

Greetings follow climbers!

We are hitting the second week of August and summer is in full swing over in the Pacific Northwest. High pressure has dominated the Cascades this past week, and we can expect more of the same forecasted through the weekend. If you’re looking to find these conditions first hand, one of the best places to find weather for Mt Rainier is the University of Washington Rainier recreational climbing forecast. The vast majority of seasonal snow below 6000ft has melted and climbers are using approach/trail shoes to access mountaineering routes in the Cascades and on Rainier at this time. With the dry summer conditions, several wildfires are burning throughout the state. The air quality in the Cascades has been in the “green” as the westerly flow prevents the smoke from settling in the region. At this time the wildfires have closed access to Cascade River Road, which impacts all climbs that access Boston Basin and Forbidden Peak. A section of Highway 20 is also currently closed, but climbers continue to access Washington Pass climbing via an alternate driving route up the eastern side of the state.

Koma Kulshan (Mount Baker) & North Cascades

Not much has changed on Koma Kulshan (Mt Baker) this week. Guide teams are reporting solid climbing conditions and our teams are summiting daily. We’ve wrapped up our final North Ridge of Baker climb for the season, and we’re already looking to getting back on the route next year. We also good standard climbing conditions on Glacier Peak, Shuksan, and other parts of the North Cascades this week.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

On Tahoma, the Emmons and Kautz routes are done for the climbing season and we look forward to returning to those routes in 2025. If you’ve got your eye on one of those routes, please make sure you follow our newsletter as we will be announcing our 2025 dates in September. If you aren’t currently on our mailing list, you can add yourself at the bottom of this page! On the Camp Muir route up the mountain, we’ve seen minimal change on the approach to Camp Muir. Climbers are wearing approach shoes and travelling on dry trail. The route above Muir has seen some changes in the past week adapting to conditions on the glacier. The new route climbs the Disappointment Cleaver and then winds up a series of steep steps and a ladder crossing to 13,200. Our team summited this route yesterday and we expect it to stay in condition for the time being. We have guides up on the mountain working on the route performing “route work” to help maintain the route for guided climbers.

Lastly, with the warmer temperatures, guides at the gear check have been adjusting the required equipment list to match the current conditions. Please understand that the gear list is a tool for packing based on all weather conditions and upon arrival at the gear check, the guide might adjust based on the short-term forecast.

Happy climbing!

We provide a weekly conditions report. Stay tuned for future updates.

Greetings follow climbers!

Summer is moving along quickly and we’re already feeling the shorter days. This last week the Cascades and the PNW got hit with a strong seasonal storm that produced heavy rain from Mt Rainier to Mt Baker.  Teams on the mountains, especially on Rainier, were impacted by the adverse conditions and paused climbing. The storm has passed and our teams are already back climbing to the summits of mountains around the area. Looking ahead, we have another lovely week forecasted in the Cascades so please make sure you bring plenty of water and sunscreen when heading into the mountains. Climbers on Mt Rainier and Mt Baker continue to use approach shoes on lower mountain trails, and single boots when climbing to the summits of both peaks. As always, guides might recommend switching back to double boots if conditions change.

Koma Kulshan (Mount Baker) & North Cascades

We’re happy to report good climbing conditions on both sides of the mountain. Last week we had our final guided team of the season summit the North Ridge and Coleman Deming route on the North Side of Kulshan. On the Southside, we’re continuing to climb the Easton Glacier route, which remains in phenomenal condition. Our climbers are reaching the summit daily on this route. Both approaches are 100% snow free to base camps so we recommend that climbers to use trail shoes to approach camp.  In other parts of the Cascades, teams have enjoyed great conditions and have continued to summit Olympus, Glacier Peak, Shuksan, and other parts of the North Cascades. The Cascade River Road is temporary closed due to a wildfire. We are monitoring the fire and working with the National Park service on resuming climbing in that area.

Tahoma (Mount Rainier)

Our last Emmons trip of the season tagged the summit yesterday, and the team will be walking out and returning to Seattle today. This route is a guide favorite, and we will miss climbing on the Emmons till next year.  Over on the Camp Muir route not much has changed getting to Camp Muir. The route above Muire has adjusted a bit over the last week due to changing conditions on the glacier.  The new route climbs the Disappointment Cleaver and once on top of the Cleaver it winds up a series of steep steps and a ladder crossing to 13,200. Our team summited this route and we expect it to stay in condition for the time being. Lastly, with the warmer temperatures, guides at the gear check have been adjusting the required equipment list to match the current conditions. Please understand that the gear list is a tool for packing based on all weather conditions and upon arrival at the gear check, the guide might adjust based on the short-term forecast.

Happy climbing!

We provide a weekly conditions report. Stay tuned for future updates.