Climbing with Alpine Ascents was the best decision I made, and I could not have been more pleased. You may pay more than some of the other companies, but I think you get more. The client-to-guide ratio was low, so there was always someone covering your backside.
The experience level of the guides and the Sherpa team was very high, with many Everest summits between them. The tents, food, equipment, and technology were top notch, as well as the relay of information that was passed along to friends and family back home.
I think one of the things that I enjoyed most about Alpine Ascents was their ability to make the trip enjoyable. Head guide Vern brought along a travel guitar and entertained the clients and locals as well.
Lakpa Rita, Ellie, JJ, Garrett, and Michael were compassionate, competent, and helpful, all adding to the success of the trip. Most of us only have one shot at Everest. Why not give it the best shot that you can? - Lori Schneider, 2009 Everest Summiter, interviewed by Alan Arnette on OutsideOnline.com
Our Everest expedition was perhaps best summed up by Finn Olaf-Jones, reporter for Discover.com: Finally, there are the much-quoted $65,000 slots, with a couple of high-profile outfitters. I've gotten to know one of them, Alpine Ascents, quite well here at base camp, and have to admit, if I could afford it, I'd probably go for it. Cynics would argue that I'm saying this because I've gobbled up so much of Alpine Ascent's tea cake up here, but for a climber, to be able to climb with mountaineering legends like Vern Tejas or Willi Prittie is an experience akin to painting with Picasso or golfing with Palmer. In some cases, if you can afford it, 65 grand is not an overwhelming price to climb with the best. Now if you'll excuse me, I think Alpine Ascents is serving tea.
Mount Everest, rising 8,850m (29,035ft) above sea level reigns as the highest mountain on Earth. Since the first ascent in 1953 by Edmond Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, reaching the summit of Everest has been considered one of the greatest achievements in Mountaineering. Every Spring Alpine Ascents International embraces this challenge taking a group of qualified climbers to climb Mt. Everest via the South Col route in Nepal
Alpine Ascents pioneered guiding on Everest and 20 years later we are still the leader in the industry. We have the highest success rate of any guide service guiding climbers to the summit. (see Why Climb With a Professional Mountain Guide) In fact Alpine Ascents' success is nearly twice the success rate of any other American company. The combination of our high quality Everest guides, Sherpa staff, excellent logistics, base camp facilities and our unique team approach to climbing the mountain have allowed us to continually operate successful expeditions while maintaining and excellent safety record.
We have learned that many logistical factors effect the safety and success of an Everest Expediton. A few unique examples are:
- REST DAY AT HIGH CAMP: Alpine Ascents takes a rest day at high camp on the South Col, breathing supplemental oxygen and re-building our strength before summit day. Other companies climb from Camp III to the South Col (an exhausting day) reaching high camp late in the afternoon and a few hours later leave for the summit. We believe our extra day greatly increases summit success as well as reduces the likely hood of extreme exhaustion and greater chance of an accident. A recent study published in the British Medical Journal states that 80% of the deaths on Everest happen on summit day or shortly there after. Marked fatigue, late summit times, and the tendency to fall behind companions are common among non-survivors.
- OXYGEN SUPPLY: Alpine Ascents provides more oxygen for climbers than any other company. We also use the lightest oxygen system (7lbs) which reduces fatigue and summit day times.
- ONE to ONE SHERPA ASSISTANCE ON SUMMIT DAY: For a group size of 10 we will have 16 Sherpa carrying loads on the mountain. On summit day a Sherpa will be assigned to you who will carry extra oxygen for you the entire day.
- PROFESSIONAL MOUNTAIN GUIDES: You will always be climbing with Professional Guides who lead the team everyday on the mountain. Our lead guides are experienced Everest and Himalayan veterans. This combined with our Sherpa support carrying loads and oxygen you will be provided with the leadership and guidance that will give you the best chance of reaching the top.
There may be many personal reasons to choose a particular guide service, but there are five main areas of concern that you should look at carefully:
Safety Record
Guides (Professional International Guides and Sherpa Staff)
Logistics in country
Pre-Trip Planning
Success Rate
In all five categories, Alpine Ascents ranks highest in the climbing industry. No other guide service has the safety record, quality of guides, finely honed programs, and customer service that we offer. Please see "Why Climb With a Professional Guide" for more information on Success rates and safety and Why climb with Alpine Ascents.
PREREQUISITES
Climbing Skill Level
Climbers prepared to take on Everest should have completed at least a week long training course and have completed a series of high altitude climbs such as Denali, Aconcagua, Cho-Oyu and Vinson. We will review each climbers bio on an individual basis to help develop climbers interested in attempting Everest.
Physical Conditioning
In the best interest of personal safety, success and team compatibility, adequate training and excellent physical condition are required. Prior experience carrying a heavy pack for multiple days serves as excellent preparation for this climb. Climbers must be able to carry an average of 30lbs or more and be physically and mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes. Climbers need to be in excellent physical condition for both personal enjoyment and to be an integral team member. We encourage you to contact us so that we may assist you in developing a training program that meets your particular needs. Comprehensive training information can be found here.
Environmental Responsibility
Alpine Ascents is deeply committed to maintaining ecosystems at home and around the world. With each expedition, trek and course, we not only attempt to leave the environment as we found it, but strive to assist the local population in protecting the land and people indigenous to that region. Alpine Ascents reaches for the highest ethical business practices at home and abroad. Each staff member is dedicated to environmentally sound alpine ascents.
At Alpine Ascents environmental stewardship remains one of our core values and we take Leave No Trace ethics and practices very seriously. The mountains are our home and we are unwilling to sacrifice their preservation for human objectives. On every one of our courses and climbs we teach and follow the environmentally appropriate Leave No Trace principals and practices.
Over the years, with the assistance of our Sherpa teams, we have stepped up efforts to clean Mt. Everest. Our Wag Bag® program made a pioneering step in human waste management for the National Park System and Forest Service in the North Cascades. On Aconcagua, we pioneered a waste removal system on our climbs, utilizing the WAG Bag® system. And we continue our on-going maintenance and minimal impact plans wherever we guide. We believe that given the proper information most people will do all they can to help protect and maintain the environment. Alpine Ascents is committed to developing safe, self-reliant and environmentally conscious mountaineers.
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