"Loved it. Much better than my Brand X Denali expedition last year I attribute this to perhaps higher screening standards with AAI. Also more menu diversity with AAI which was appreciated. Finally, I LOVED the fact that AAI handed us 15 lbs of lunch food at Willi's hangar. With other outfits we were simply were told to bring all of our own lunch food, and because a lot of us didn't have experience packing lunches for three weeks, we didn't give ourselves as much interesting and delicious stuff as was handed to us by AAI." Andrew. Denali 2012
"I also wanted to say that Kirah and Brien are wonderful, professional guides. They gave me great encouragement to keep me going, I had to descend on an Brand X rope, and the difference in guide quality was unbelievable; Alpine Ascents clearly has the best guides in the business. The food was great (and abundant), the guide's attitudes were everything I could have asked for, and the environment they provided was perfect for climbing and having a great time while doing so. I spent some time with Team 5 (Stuart and Lhawang) and they are clearly of the same caliber. Once I got down, Ellie was a great help in assisting with my arrangements to get me back home. I look forward to more trips in the future with AAI!" Eric. Denali 2012
"I was extremely impressed with the overall program, from the information we received beforehand to prepare for the trip, the PDF documents and lists, the emails we received, the rapid response to our queries from Gordon Janow and the input from Willi and Ellie in Talkeetna. The way everything was prepared and weighed and checked in the hangar before we left made me feel so secure that we were in good hands! The strengths are definitely in all its planning and years of experience of running these sorts of expeditions. It was very clear to us that this was a very well organized and well run outfit." - Liesl W. Denali 2011 >Read More
We offer both 6 climber and 9 climber teams. 9 climber teams are offered at the beginning and end of the season.
Alpine Ascents has been running successful Denali expeditions for over 15 years. We look to have similar success in 2013 and as always, we are happy to put you in touch with former climbers. We are committed to keeping up our high standards of food and logistics excellent and look forward to the 2013 Season
Alpine Ascents offers small group sizes of six climbers and two guides as well as teams of 9 climbers with 3 guides. Please note it is imperative for any size group that all climbers are in excellent physical condition and well trained in the necessary climbing skills to ascend Denali.
Alpine Ascents has climbing concessions on both Denali and Mount Rainier and offer training courses in both these locations. These courses are an excellent way to make sure your climbing skills and physical conditioning meet the requirements to attempt Denali. Alpine Ascents has higher standards for Denali climbers than other companies because we know your climb will be more enjoyable, safer and have a greater chance of success if all members are well-prepared for the rigors of Denali.
New: We have satellite phones and a new cybercast system which allows for immediate posting to our website. After much debate we have decided to offer both 6 and 9 climber teams (always a 3:1 ratio) offering choices for our climbers. Both team sizes are priced at the same per person rate. Please contact us with any questions as Denali books out early every season.
Overview
There are certain mountains that need no explanation as to why climb. Denali is such a mountain. Its tremendous size and beauty generate a magnetism that continually draws climbers from around the world. An ascent of Denali, touches the psyche of all alpinists and for those who have undertaken its challenges, it rewards them with an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Denali is often considered America's most classic climb. From top to bottom, it rises nearly 18,000', an elevation gain unsurpassed anywhere in the world. At a northern latitude of 63°, it is the most northerly of any big mountain over 20,000'. No other region offers such breathtaking and diverse views each day of the ascent. The panorama from Denali's summit includes Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington in all their majestic glory.
When Dr. Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route, he heralded in a new era of Denali ascents and offered climbers a unique approach to the summit. The flight onto the glacier is a trip in itself, presenting overwhelming vistas of the Alaska Range. The West Buttress route remains, by far, the most successfully climbed route on the mountain.
Why Climb Denali with Alpine Ascents?
Since the inception of our Denali program, Alpine Ascents has continued its leadership on Denali with extremely high summit success (much of this can be attributed to our outstanding guide staff and climbing teams) We continually assist with rescues on the mountain. With strong praise from the National Park and Media (many of our guides have received Denali Pro pin awards from Denali National Park) and an excellent working relationship with other guide services we look to equal success this year. As Alpine Ascents operates an intensive Mountaineering school, we can often get to know our climbers, before they embark on such a climb as Denali.
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The Climb
A Denali climb begins deep in the heart of the Alaska Mountain Range on the Kahiltna Glacier. From the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier we begin the climb of Denali's West Buttress. Base Camp plus five higher camps are established on the mountain. When necessary, the team makes double carries between all camps, except high camp, to ensure proper acclimatization and reduce loads. In each camp we build snow walls for protection from possible high winds. The climb takes approximately 17-18 days round trip from Base and we add an additional four days to allow for inclement weather, acclimatization and optimal summit attempts. The ascent requires intermediate mountaineering skills and is physically and mentally demanding.
Climbing Conditions
Denali is a mountain of extreme conditions where a climber may encounter 100-mph winds and - 40°F temperatures. Alternately, some days are quite hot with sunshine lasting up to 20 hours. These low temperatures and sporadic high winds greatly increase the rigors of the climb. Snowstorms are known to last a week at a time. The unpredictable weather coupled with the high altitude requires not only technical snow and cold weather skills, but also endurance and fortitude.
Climbing Skill Level
Climbers should have successfully completed our Denali Prep Course, 6-Day Training course 13-Day Training course 8-Day Training course 10-Day Training course Alaska 8 Day Course, Alaska 12-Day Training course or have equivalent skills and experience. This climb requires proficiency in glacier travel, crevasse rescue, cramponing, and expedition camping skills. It is our goal to have similarly skilled climbers on our expeditions and we have thorough Denali screening guidelines. >>Read More
Physical Conditioning
In the best interest of personal safety, success and team compatibility, adequate training is required. Climbers must be able to carry a 60lb pack and pull a 40lb sled at high altitude and be not only physically but also mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations. Do not underestimate the physical conditioning that is needed to climb Denali. We encourage you to contact us so that we may assist you in developing a training program that meets your particular needs. We are pleased to offer a definitive training program for Denali on our website, written by Stacy Taniguchi. >>Read More
Environmental Responsibility
Alpine Ascents is deeply committed to maintaining ecosystems at home and around the world. With each expedition, trek and course, we not only attempt to leave the environment as we found it, but strive to assist the local population in protecting the land and people indigenous to that region. Alpine Ascents reaches for the highest ethical business practices at home and abroad. Each staff member is dedicated to environmentally sound alpine ascents.
At Alpine Ascents environmental stewardship remains one of our core values and we take Leave No Trace ethics and practices very seriously. The mountains are our home and we are unwilling to sacrifice their preservation for human objectives. On every one of our courses and climbs we teach and follow the environmentally appropriate Leave No Trace principals and practices.
Over the years, with the assistance of our Sherpa teams, we have stepped up efforts to clean Mt. Everest. Our Wag Bag® program made a pioneering step in human waste management for the National Park System and Forest Service in the North Cascades. On Aconcagua, we pioneered a waste removal system on our climbs, utilizing the WAG Bag® system. And we continue our on-going maintenance and minimal impact plans wherever we guide. We believe that given the proper information most people will do all they can to help protect and maintain the environment. Alpine Ascents is committed to developing safe, self-reliant and environmentally conscious mountaineers.
Private Groups
We regularly organize private climbs for individuals, corporate groups, families and friends. We encourage you to book these climbs early as we are often able to cater these climbs to group-specific desires. Please contact our office to further discuss the benefits of private courses.
Alpine Ascents is an authorized concessionaire of Denali National Park and Preserve.
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