2003 Denali Cybercast
7/11/03 6:34pm. Talkeetna, AK. Team Mackerel.
Good evening, it's the Mackerels calling from Talkeetna, AK. Greg, Holt and I descended all the way from 11,000, we snowshoed all the way to Base Camp. Weather was looking clear in the morning, but then it clouded up and then it started raining. So we had our doubts about flying out and sure enough here comes Talkeetna Air Taxi through the clouds and into our camp. We have been in Talkeetna for just a bit and we are looking forward to Burgers and free drinks. Everyone is doing well, and I'm sure you will be talking to Holt and Greg soon. That's it for the Denali Season, thanks for watching.
7/10/03 8:45pm. 9,500 feet, AK. Team Mackerel.
Good evening this is the Mackerels calling you from about 9,500 ft. on the Kahiltna Glacier. We are heading down through thick fog and we hope to be flying out to Talkeetna tomorrow morning for a big fat breakfast at the Roadhouse. So we will keep you updated and call you from Talkeetna and let you know what's going on. See you later.
7/10/03 11:30am. 14,200 feet, AK. Team Mackerel.
Good morning this is the Mackerels, calling from 14,000 ft. on Mt. McKinley. Right now we are just waiting around to start heading down the mountain. We are waiting (transmission unclear) and enjoying some a little bit of sunshine. Holt has just finished off I think his third pound of smoked salmon. I am trying to slow him down, I'm a little worried about his condition because he might flounder here. So as long as Holt is going to make it we are going to head down and call in again this evening a little lower on the glacier. This is Joe. We will talk to you later.
7/10/03 8:16am. Talkeetna, AK. Team Sun Dog.
Hey everybody, this is Eric Larson from Alpine Ascents Expedition #9, Team Sun Dog. Today, is the 10th, Thursday and we got out yesterday around noon. We hiked all through the night, the night before and everybody did really well, pushing hard towards base camp through the night. It was a beautiful night to be hiking on the lower glacier. It was nice and frozen so we didn't have any crevasse issues. We were pushing hard from 17,000 to all the way out to base camp in probably one of the harder things that we could do on this expedition and Dennis, Kevin and Haroldo did great.
I would like to take this time to say to thanks to everyone that did join this expedition. Jim and Steph, we did miss you on the last part and wished you were there. I had a great time and I hope the rest of the members had a great time even though we didn't make the summit. People need to know that the summit isn't everything but it is the total experience that makes the expedition. The thing about a Denali expedition should be about the people and what they do. So it makes it a lot more special to have good members like Dennis, Haroldo and Kevin. I wish everyone the best of luck on the next climb and maybe next year they can come back and summit with us. But I would like to say thanks to all the families out there did support these climbers and my wife also, without their support we couldn't be enjoying these mountains. Once again, this Eric Larson, and we would like to thanks to everybody for the trip and we will talk to you on the next climb. This is Eric Larson signing off, bye.
7/9/03 11:41pm. 14,200 feet, Denali. Team Mackerel.
Good evening this is the Mackerels calling from 14,000 ft. We are on our way down after trying for the summit this morning. We got up to 18,000 ft. and had to turn around due to the weather. We woke up with bluebird skies but it quickly deteriorated and it got windy and really snowy (transmission unclear for a couple seconds) which always makes for exciting conditions. So with not so good forecast we headed down the ridge and down the fixed lines and we are here at 14,000 on the way down to the airstrip. So you should be hearing more from Holt, Greg and Joe tomorrow. See you.
7/8/03 10:45pm. 10,000 feet, Denali. Team Sun Dog.
Hey everybody, it's Eric Larson, Team Sun Dog, Alpine Ascents Expedition #9. It's 10:45 in the evening on the 8th and we are calling you from 10,000 feet on our way down. Unfortunately we didn't have a chance to summit. We were up at high camp for 6 days and with all of food and fuel and we were exhausted and we didn't have an opportunity to summit but everyone did really well. Everyone is tired right now obviously but we are sitting here at 10,000 ft. looking at a beautiful view of the moon, Foraker is half lit up and it's pretty nice. We will show you the photos when we get home. But I wanted to say thanks for everybody and everybody's support they gave this team and their loved ones that let them go on this trip. We will give you a cybercast when we get back to Talkeetna and we should be flying out tomorrow morning if the weather allows. So expect some phone calls from us. Bye.
7/8/03 2:37pm. 17.2 Camp, Denali. Team Mackerel.
Good afternoon this is the remainder of the Mackerels, calling from 17, 000feet on Mt. McKinley. Oh, we had an interesting night last night, very high winds and we had to repeatedly dig out our tents and its quite exciting. The storm was so severe you couldn't see even 15 feet in front of you. The jet stream is sitting right over us and right below us are some clear skies. So we are stuck here. Theresa, Fiona and Eric all headed down this afternoon because of the bad forecasts. So that means that Greg, Holt, and Bill remain at 17,000 and hoping to summit day in the next couple of days. So we will let you know what's going on. This is Joe from the Mackerels signing out.
7/6/03 8:01pm. 17.2 Camp, Denali. Team Sun Dog.
Hey everybody this is Eric Larson with Team Sun Dog giving everyone a call from 17,200 feet. Today is Sunday the 6th of July it's just around 8pm. This morning the weather was pretty ugly, so we hung out and waited for the weather to change and then we decided to take a hike up towards Denali Pass to see what it was like. Just as we tough, as soon as we got to Denali Pass the winds picked up and it got rather cold. We turned around, it was about a five hour hike. Everybody's tired still, which is odd. But they're doing really well and hopefully we'll get another weather break in the next couple of days, because we're running out of time up here, if we get a break we'll go for it.
Everybody's doing all right, their spirits dropped a little today because of the weather, they were sort of bummed to get up to Denali Pass and see that the weather shot us down. We'll have two or three more days of chances before we have to go down. We'll give you a report tomorrow and let you know about conditions and what else is going on around the summit or not. This is Eric signing out.
7/6/03 4:25pm. 17.2 Camp, Denali. Team Mackerel.
Hi everyone out there this is Eric Remza with Team Mackerel. We are up here at 17,200 feet and just wanted to touch base and let everyone know that we had a rest day today. We had our move from 14,000 feet yesterday. People are doing well, everyone is well rested and everyone seems to be acclimatizing really well. Everything is good on that front. We were going to plan on going to the summit today, a lot of people were making a late summit, about 3 teams I'd say went up today and they didn't actually leave until like 2:00. So we kind of had a little fire drill and got up to just a little bit outside of camp and we decide to turn around.
Our plan is to have a crack at it tomorrow. We're looking at getting up at around 6:00 and moving around 9. The weather seems likes it will hold for us, it probably will be a little bit gusty, it's been a little bit gusty up there all day. So hopefully people can keep us in their good thoughts and pray for good weather, that's what we're doing. As a said note, while we were relaxing today, Theresa won at Hearts. Everyone else is doing great, that's it for now, we'll let you know if we made it out of Camp. Se ya.
7/5/03 7:51pm. 17.2 Camp, Denali. Team Mackerel.
Good evening this is the Mackerels calling from 17,200 feet on Mt McKinley. Today we climbed all the way from the 14K Camp, up the fixed lines and up the awesome Ridge up to Camp. It was a beautiful day, conditions were great on the route, calm and warm, couldn't ask for a better day. Everyone is doing great and in good spirits. I've never seen such a strong group up here, so it's really exciting. Unfortunately Scott headed down after twisting his knee descending the fixed lines the other day. We'd hoped he'd come with us but he said it was just bad enough that he decided to head down. We're sad to see him go. Hopefully we'll be joining him in Talkeetna before not too long. Tomorrow we're going to rest here acclimatize and recover from the hike up and then the next day on Monday we'll be making our summit attempt if weather allows. Until tomorrow, this is the Mackerels, out.
7/4/03 8:58pm. 14K Camp, Denali. Team Mackerel.
Hello this is Eric Remza with Team Mackerel and here's our update. We are at 14,200 feet after our carry yesterday up the fixed lines. Everyone is well rested and in good spirits. Tomorrow our plan is to, weather depending, make a move to High Camp at 17,200 feet. It's a big day and it really is a day that's going to take a lot of time and a lot of energy and a lot of patience. Definitely keep up in your good thoughts and hopefully we'll have good weather and be able to get up there expediently. Hello from Holt Hunter to all his friends and family and he gives his love. Also to all the Fine Fish connoisseurs out there. Greg Hull-Ryde wishes happy anniversary to his mother and father, Happy Anniversary!
It's a beautiful day right now and I'm watching the sun kind of dip down beneath the ridgeline, got a beautiful alpenglow, nice light on Mt Hunter, Mt Foraker, really beautiful right now. Also we got a good weather forecast for the next few days High Pressure is supposed to build over the mountain until the end of Sunday. Then we're supposed to have mostly sunny days on Monday and Tuesday, so that's the kind of big question mark right now is to whether that will mean high winds or a low pressure coming in, on that note, positive thoughts for us to have a good weather push.
I just talked with Alpine Ascents Team Sun Dog with Eric Larson and Chad Kellogg, and they're moved in at 17,200 feet and they're doing good. They'll try and make a push for the summit tomorrow and if not, they will try the next day. For now this is Team Mackerel signing out. Hello to my Mother and Father out there I send out my love and also to my nieces, Megan and Brenna, Duffy. Hope you guys are all watching the cybercast. That's it for now, ciao.
7/4/03 7:57pm. 17.2 Camp, Denali. Team Sun Dog.
Hello everybody, it's Eric Larson with Alpine Ascents Team Sun Dog. Today was a great day, It's Friday July 4th, Happy Independence Day. Turned out to be a really nice day. We went for a move yesterday for High Camp and the winds picked up pretty good on the ridge so we camped at 16,400 feet instead and this morning woke up to a beautiful day. Light winds very little clouds, probably one of our best days yet. We made it to Camp it took us about three and a half hours we were breaking trail in a foot of fresh snow and we're sitting pretty at 17,200 feet. So we're hoping that the weather is going to hold for us, tomorrow sounds like it's really nice and if the team's up for it, we'll try for the summit and if not, we'll rest for a day and try for it on Sunday. Not much else is going on, everyone's pretty tired, the altitude, definitely feeling it and after 13 days of travel we're sort of tired. We'll drop you another line either tomorrow form the summit or maybe from The Edge over here looking down at 14K Camp, we'll drop another phone call on our rest day. This is Eric Larson signing off.
7/3/03 10:00pm. 14K Camp, Denali. Team Mackerel.
Hello this is the Mackerels at 14,000 feet on Denali. Today we carried loads up to 16,000 feet on the West Buttress and deep snow getting up there. At the top of the fixed lines we were greeted by High winds and driving snow, so we won't be continuing on to the 17K Campo today. Tomorrow is a rest day and the next ay hopefully we'll be moving up to the Camp at 17,000. We'll talk to you tomorrow, bye.
7/3/03 7:50pm. 16.2 Camp, Denali. Team Sun Dog.
Hey this is Chad Kellogg calling you with Alpine Ascents. It's Thursday July 3rd and we're on the West Buttress at 16,200 feet with some snow and some wind. Everybody's in good shape and we're just brewing up some dinner, looking forward to moving up to 17 tomorrow and hopefully putting us in good position for the weekend. We'll wish you a guys a happy Fourth of July soon. Over and Out.
7/3/03 7:26pm. 9,000 feet on Denali. Team Feeling It.
Hey everybody this is Willi Reporting from Denali again for Team Feeling It! Team Feeling It has successfully made its escape from Camp IV, at 14,200 feet today. We had the usual theme of difficult descent that seems to have been plaguing our expedition since our summit. We had blowing snow, whiteout, wind, heavy riming conditions and thigh-deep snow that we were breaking to actually make good that escape from 14,200 feet.
But as I speak to you now we're sitting at just over 9,000 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier, it's a very chilly day here, which is good for us because that means the glacier conditions would be better for actually getting back to Base Camp. We expect to see that sometime about midnight tonight and we are all very hopeful that we are going to be able to fly out first thing tomorrow morning. Our entire mantra on our trip out today? Well "From The West Buttress to The West Rib." The West Rib of course being a famous climbing route on Denali, but more to our import on this trip, it's also a famous pub in Talkeetna that serves excellent beer and excellent hamburgers. Next time we talk to you, we'll talk to you from the phone of the West Rib. So long for now.
7/2/03 12:45am. 14K Camp, Denali. Team Feeling It.
Hi this is Erik With Team Feeling It. We're currently still at 14.2 checking in with everyone we're still working our way down. The weather has been really gnarly. A day in waiting here with the snow, we've had a lot of avalanches coming down, but we're well out of the range, we've just been getting fat and lazy and we'll be trying to head out tomorrow morning and hopefully we'll be talking next when we're at the tarmac in Talkeetna. Hopefully we'll be able to fly out tomorrow if the weather is good, if not we'll be out on the fourth. Everybody says hi to their loved ones and I just want to give a special hi to Miranda and tell her that I will see you in two weeks. This is Team Feeling It, out.
7/2/03 8:20pm. 14K Camp, Denali. Team Sun Dog.
Hey everybody it's Eric Larson with Alpine Ascents Denali Expedition #9, Team Sun Dog. It's Wednesday the 2nd of July and we're at the 14,00 foot Camp and we had our rest day today. Didn't do much besides eat a lot of food and nap. Last night it snowed about 12 inches and today it snowed another 6 inches. The weather is a pretty good whiteout, but we're secure right now tucked into 14Camp with a few other groups and we're just going to wait the weather out here until it improves and then we'll go up higher. Jim and Stephanie are still with us they're not going down yet because of the weather so it's a good thing we get to spend some more time with them until the weather improves. Everybody's doing good, we're just relaxing and hoping for good weather so we can get this climb finished. We'll call you tomorrow with hopefully a little bit more excitement. Tomorrow, if the weather does improve, we should be going to High Camp which will take about 6 to 7 hours. We'll call you from High Camp if we make it and if not we will call you from 14 Camp. This is Eric Larson signing off.
7/2/03 7:49pm. 14K Camp, Denali. Team Mackerel.
Hello this is the Mackerels calling in from 14,000 feet on Mt. McKinley. Today we've had lots of snow and strong winds. We woke up hearing all sorts of avalanches and then it cleared up a little bit and then we had some more snow. We had a rest day today, we're getting ready to do our carry to 16,000, hopefully tomorrow. We Had fun today, we're locked in our tents reading, we're listening to the soundtrack to the movie Dumb and Dumber which is quite entertaining for us all. Hopefully tomorrow we'll get some exercise hiking up the hill. Until then we're having a good time.
7/1/03 10:30pm. 14K Camp, Denali. Team Feeling It.
Hey there everyone out there this is Willi Prittie reporting for Denali again for Team Feeling It. We are down to 14,200 feet now. Great to be down with what we now perceive as thicker air, and we just visited with Eric Larson's team and Eric Remza's Team. Seems like Alpine Ascents owns Camp IV on the mountain right now.
In any case we had an excellent descent of the West Buttress today. Yet again in challenging conditions. The combo of actually feeling comfortable in good mountain clothing and actually climbing in the conditions we had which were a lot of wind, whiteout, greyout, blowing spindrift snow, heavy rime, and along breathtaking exposed ridge, it's pretty amazing also amidst the rime-covered rocks it can also be a life-altering and amazing experience. Then you know what happens, a brief clearing comes by, the squall clears briefly, the beauty around us is revealed and we all realize what an outrageously beautiful part of this Earth and this equally outrageous experience we've been able to have is. We all really truly feel blessed and touched by the last few days climbing.
Team Feeling it is Feeling it, we're having fun, great sense of humor, and we're even really more looking forward to that Moose's Tooth Hamburger and a few rounds of beer when we get down in a few days time, we hope. That's it from 14.2. As a final note Cam would like to say hi to both Anthony and Bruce. So long for now.
7/1/03 10:24pm. 14K Camp, Denali. Team Mackerel.
Hi this is Eric Remza with Team Mackerel. And we are still at 14,200 feet on Denali Today we had a really good day. The weather was pretty inclement we woke up to snow showers this morning, kind of North Cascades style. For those of you who have never climbed in the North Cascades, that means a lot of wet snow. So in the Alaska Range which is usually continental snow pack, drier snow, it was a blast to have a little bit of Cascade Weather up here. I was really kind of sad that I wasn't getting more moisture content in my snow.
Today we did a back-carry down to 13.5 just before Windy Corner and we got our cache of food and fuel. The team is doing great, everyone is just doing wonderful, acclimatizing, and really working well as a team, bonding. I'm having a great time working with Joe Stock, we're having a really good time with this group. Joe and I just spent some time divvying food for everyone to carry tomorrow for caching, so we had our plan tomorrow which is actually to get up on the fixed lines and do a cache anywhere between 16.2 and 16.8 which is right around Washburn's Thumb. Washburn's Thumb is a big gendarme that lies at about 16,800 feet and is named after Brad Washburn. That is our plan for tomorrow, we did plenty of practice today getting everyone comfortable using the fixed line gear. We'll be using ascenders to climb roughly 60 degree ice, on 11mm fixed line. This is Team Mackerel signing out.
7/1/03 7:50pm. 14K Camp, Denali. Team Sun Dog.
Hey everybody this is Eric Larson with Alpine Ascents Denali Team Sun Dog. Today is July 1st, we just did a carry up to 16,200 feet above the fixed lines, cached 6 days of food and fuel and now we're going to take a rest day and wait out some weather. The weather is supposed to be gone by Thursday. Everybody is doing really well, they worked hard today and deserve the next day off. We hope to be doing nothing but eating, hydrating, and sleeping.
Unfortunately I have to say that Jim and Stephanie have decided not to continue with the climb. They'll be going down with Willi Prittie's team and hopefully they will have safe travels off the glacier and back to Talkeetna. They were both strong but decided they just didn't want to climb anymore. Expeditions are though, especially in Alaska, but we wish them both the best and we'll be thinking of them as we continue our climb. This is Eric Larson signing off and we'll call you back tomorrow.
6/30/03 9:20pm. 14K Camp, Denali. Team Mackerel.
Team Mackerel called in from 14K Camp again to Poor reception. They will do a back-carry tomorrow and were going to enjoy a rest day Wednesday. They will call in again.
6/30/03 8:50pm. 17K Camp, Denali. Team Feeling It.
Hello again this is Willi reporting for Team Feeling it from 17.2 on Denali. We actually all summited 100% yesterday. We started out with a very beautiful day and unfortunately a storm system came in a little earlier than expected so our 12 hour climb up went well and then we proceeded to have to fight our way down a 12 hour climb back down again. We were climbing for a 24-hour stint and had to deal with some very high winds, blowing snow, rime conditions, zero visibility. It's a pleasure for me to announce that the team actually worked very well as a team together, we got through it very same, in good spirits and also with a good sense of humor despite climbing for 24 hours straight. We're all kind of catching up on our sleep today. We have a nice sunny day today despite what the weather forecast said it was supposed to be and tomorrow we should be starting on down and we'll see if we have to wait for the weather to fly to Talkeetna. In any case once again 100% success, everybody did a very good job, we all really enjoyed our climb and had quite the experience at the same time.
Also Kathy Jackoway wanted to give a special thanks to the foundation that has donated much money to cancer research and cancer treatment and she's had many people make donations to that and also donations to her climbing and that's The Lance Armstrong Foundation and she would like to thank everybody that has helped out on that. In the meantime we're shilling here at 17 and hoping we're going to get some good weather to make our descent. Although it seems to me that twice a day they seem to be changing the weather report on us. We shall see what we shall see. That's all for Team Feeling It, we were definitely feeling it when we finally after 24 hours returned to Camp. So long for now.
6/30/03 8:41pm. 14K Camp, Denali. Team Sun Dog.
Good evening this is Chad Kellogg with Alpine Ascents, it's Monday the 30th about 8:30pm Alaska Time. We are standing here in the sun, 14K Camp. Pretty good day we did a back-carry, pretty light. We'll do a carry up to 15.2 tomorrow up the fixed lines, then take a rest day, we'll keep you up to snuff.
6/29/03 4:52pm. Windy Corner, Denali. Team IX.
Good evening this is Chad Kellogg with Alpine Ascents, it's Sunday the 29th about 5pm. We've named ourselves Team Sun Dog, because of all the sun dogs we've seen on the way up here. So far everything's going well. WE anticipate doing a back carry tomorrow and possibly a rest day. There's a cloud cap on top of the mountain so we might run into some weather. That's about it, over and out.
6/29/03 1:38pm. Windy Corner, Denali. Team Mackerel.
Hi this is Eric Remza with Team Mackerel giving you a call from Windy Corner. We just put in a cache and had a nice walk from camp, everyone seems to be acclimatizing well. A quick hello from the Westovers, they give their love to their friends and family in Reno and Greg gives his love to his wife and wishes her a happy anniversary.
Everyone is doing great we're just taking some time adjusting to the thinner air up here and just checking out the great Massif of Denali just above us. We're crossing paths with a lot of other expeditions up here. People coming back to get their cache and people heading up to their move to 14 Camp, so it's pretty busy right here. We'll be heading back down to 11,000 Camp. The weather's kind of inclement, hopefully we'll be able to push up tomorrow. Until then we'll give you a call from 14K Camp, wish us luck and good weather. Team Mackerel signing out.
6/28/03 6:30pm. Summit of Denali. Jumping Jumars.
Hello there cybernauts this is Vern Tejas with Alpine Ascents Jumping Jumars. And we're saying hello from Sticky, From the King, From Mikey, From Burnin' Vernon, from Enrique, From K-Dog and The Gif. We're on top of North America as we speak. That's 20,320 feet and 1.43 inches. And boy is it a beautiful day. God has smiled on us ladies and gentlemen. We are looking from here, all the way from Siberia to Sitka. I can see Mt. Hayes, Deborah and Hess off in the Eastern Alaskan Range looking to the south the whole Ruth Amphitheater is open, Huntington is proudly sticking it's head up, it's the most magnificent Massif in the area. Looking down the Kahiltna 36 miles you can see the Tokasitna Glacier, The Ruth Glacier the Kahiltna Glacier, the Foraker Glacier, Foraker is just off in the distance. There is only one place in the world you can look down on Foraker and that's right here on the top of Denali. The highest point ion the United States. Thank you for your prayers and good wishes we're here on top and we're digging it. Yahoo! Ciao for now for a safe descent. Namaste.
6/28/03 3:56pm. 17K Camp on Denali. Team Feeling It.
Hello out there again everybody, this is Willi Prittie calling from Denali. Team Feeling it is at 17.2, Camp V, that's high camp on Denali. We had a very long day yesterday getting here through persistent snowfall and were rewarded marvelously for that work we have unlimited visibility and one of the most beautiful views on Earth, we're watching standing here watching right now, Bruce and I. Today is our rest day and it's looking like we have several more days of good weather. WE are planning on going for the summit today. It was a thrill to actually watch the Jumping Jumars burn through actually on the traverse of Denali Pass this morning and it looks like they are also enjoying a beautiful day up high on Denali. That's the latest from High Camp on Denali, talk to you later.
6/28/03 12:43pm. 10K Camp on Denali. Team IX.
Eric Larson called in again from the Team's cache site. They are doing well, their cell phone reception was too poor for a full call, they will try again tomorrow.
6/28/03 11:03am. 10K on Denali. Team Mackerel.
Good morning this The Mackerels on Mt. McKinley. It's finally a beautiful day you can see all the way out to the mountains to Cook Inlet and the Tundra in the Northlands. We've been seeing a lot of low clouds but now there is not a cloud in the sky. Soon we're going to be really hot as we hike the hill back up to the 11,000 foot camp. We're down here at 10,000 getting our cache, picking it up and hauling it back up the hill. We have no cell phone reception from 11,000 feet so we always do our calls from here. We're going to spend the rest of the day relaxing, trying on our crampons, thinning out a bit of the food and getting ready to make a carry up to 13,500 tomorrow. Until tomorrow, hopefully we'll be up there and we'll be calling from Windy Corner. We'll talk with you then, bye.
6/27/03 8:46pm. 17K Camp on Denali. Jumping Jumars.
Hello friends and family this is Vern Tejas with Alpine Ascents Jumping Jumars. That's right we finally made it to Camp V, 17,143 feet above sea level. It was a big push yesterday. We've gained 3,000 feet and hiked up the West Buttress Ridge. The West Buttress Ridge is probably the most scenic aspect of the whole mountain. We worked hard, carried a little extra weight and are now is excellent position to go for the summit if the weather breaks. Right now we are experiencing whit-out conditions and 30 mph winds. Reports for the weather in the near future seem to be improving. It's supposed to be sunny tomorrow and winds are supposed to die, come Sunday. So we're looking at Sunday currently.
I do have a message to Jody from Kevin DeVries: Feeling great and love and miss you much, see you soon. To Drew: Happy Birthday bro! I hope you and Langy are enjoying the Alaska King Salmon," that's from Kevin Gifford. And Gene says hi to Family and Friends at Memorial and Worcester Medical Center. And to Alison and Lindy (Lynn D?) I miss you and love you very much, love Mike. So there's our messages from high above the continent of North America to all those back home we're thinking of you and missing you very much. Pray for good weather, keep your fingers crossed and hopefully we'll have some good news for you. Ciao for now, Namaste.
6/27/03 11:35am. 10K on Denali. Team X.
Hi this is Eric Remza with Alpine Ascents team X. I am going to make it official we are changing our expedition name. We are no longer to be called the Buckaroo Banzai etc etc. We are now called Team Mackerel. Things are going great, it's the 27th of June and we are at about 10,000 feet on Mt. McKinley, Denali, the High One. We're right at our cache that we placed yesterday and we're just picking up a few things and we're pretty much going to pass our cache today and continue on up to 11,000 foot Camp. Everyone's looking forward to getting out of the "valley", we've been looking at cloud banks the last couple of days and once we get up to 11,000 feet we'll be kind of above the lower weather that accumulates on the lower slopes of Denali.
Everyone's doing great. First of all I wanted to give some hellos from Fiona. She wants to say hi to Caroline, Nadia and Eleanor. And she gives her love and smiles from the Glacier. Everyone else is doing really well, I've probably said that about ten times by now, but that's just to emphasize, that we're just having a great time up here. People are really starting to bond and just having a great time. We're just about a day behind the other alpine Ascents Team and looking forward to rendezvousing with them and let's see tomorrow we're going to do a back-carry so once we spend a night at 11,000 Camp, we will then back-track to our cache at 10,000 feet and then bring it back up to our 11,00 foot camp. Pretty short day, it's going to be kind of like a rest day, we've definitely earned it. Been on a night schedule, getting up at 2 in the morning and moving around 4 or 5. We're looking forward to getting back on more of a day schedule, up in the morning. Joe will give you a call tomorrow, hope everyone's doing well. This is Eric Remza calling from Mt. McKinley, see ya.
6/27/03 9:36am. 10.2 on Denali. Team IX.
Good morning this is Chad Kellogg calling from 10,200 feet. Group IX is doing a back-carry from 11 down to 10.2 and then moving back up. Pretty light day today, and it's nice weather up at 11. Everybody's doing well, we're looking forward to taking a good day of eating and drinking and catching up on some rest. We just had a great breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon and hash browns. We'll get back to you tomorrow. Over and Out.
6/26/03 12:39pm. 10K on Denali. BBIST.
Hi this is Alpine Ascents Denali 10, BBIST. We're right now at 10,000 feet putting in our cache. It's snowing, kind of windy, but not too bad. Yesterday we made all the way up here from Base Camp. Hard day with heavy packs but not too long and it went well and everybody did great. Now we're going to head back down to 8,000 feet and sleep before heading all the way up to 11 again. Everybody's doing great and we're having a blast, see you later.
6/26/03 11:39am. 14K Camp on Denali. Team Feeling It.
Good morning this is Erik Barnes calling with Alp 8, Team Feeling It. We are still at Camp 14 and it's another beautiful day out this morning. Light snow through the evening. Yesterday we spent the day going up through the fixed lines up the headwall. There was a little snow in the morning, but it turned out to be a beautiful day. The clouds were kind of rolling in and out, giving us some great views. Everybody had fun going up the fixed lines. We put in our cache yesterday and today after a hard day yesterday, we're going to take a rest day and hang out here at 14,000 feet and eat some good food. Last night we had some Thai chili and cheesecake and today we're going to hang out and have some salmon in the morning and tomorrow we're going to be pushing up to 17.2 So I hope everyone's having a good time out there, we're having a good time here. Talk to you later.
6/26/03 9:30am. 10,200 feet on Denali. Team IX.
Hey everybody it's Eric Larson returning to call. We're at the 10,000 foot cache site. We just pulled out of Camp at 2:45 this morning, running night maneuvers because of the cold, it's a lot colder so everything is more frozen. It's about 9:30 in the morning on the 26th, Day 6 and we're cruising right along. We got about 6 inches of fresh snow on the trail and right when we go around the corner it should increase a little bit. We should be pulling in to 11,000 foot camp in about two hours and set up camp there for the next three days, We'll be able to give another call tomorrow when we return to get our cache from the site here at 10,200 feet to get the rest of our equipment, all our extra food and fuel, not much else is going on beside a lot of weather. We're in the clouds, which are parting above our heads so it should be good higher up on the mountain. We'll take the bad weather now and hopefully the good weather when we go for the summit. We'll give you a call tomorrow and tell you how people are doing. See you later.
From: 6/24/03 12:30pm. 10,200 feet on Denali. Team IX.
Hey everybody it's Eric Larson returning back on the air. Today is day 4, and we just arrived at 10,200 feet from the bottom of Ski Hill at 7,800. Everybody did really well, we did it in about 4 hours up, maybe two and half hours down we expect. Everybody's doing well, Kevin is wondering how he's going to get an upper body workout up here for football season, I thought that was pretty funny. People are doing good. Haroldo, I don't think has ever been colder in his life and it's June towards the end of the Denali season, so it is warmer up here. Tomorrow we should, if weather is good, we should be moving up to 11,000 feet and we can give you another call back then. This is Eric Larson signing out.
6/25/03 7:50pm. 14K Camp, AK. Jumping Jumars.
Hello cybernauts this is Eric Murphy for Alpine Ascents Jumping Jumars. We're sitting pretty here at 14,200 feet. Everybody today enjoyed a rest day after carrying to 16.2 yesterday which was our high point thus far. We made a cache at the top of the fixed lines and tomorrow we hope to be moving up to 17,205. Today we celebrated a birthday in the group and we had a cheesecake dessert. Everyone is acclimatizing well and weather's been a little bit questionable there's been a weak low, some fresh snow and some low winds, we're looking for that to clear up as we move up to 17.2 tomorrow. If that happens we will hopefully g et out another cybercast tomorrow. Alpine Ascents Jumping Jumars, out.
6/25/03 2:30pm. Talkeetna, AK. Team VI.
Hey everybody out there this is Dave Morton with Captain America, Mad Dog and the Libertines. It's Wednesday the 25 and we are back in Talkeetna. We flew out yesterday evening and had a great celebratory dinner in Talkeetna and a few beers at the Fairview Inn afterwards. We arrived at Base Camp after going all night from the 14,000 foot Camp at about 8am. The weather shut down on us a little bit and it didn't look like we were going to fly but late afternoon it started clearing and we were able to fly back from Base Camp to Talkeetna last night.
This about wraps it up for Team IV. We had a great time, a couple of guys just got on the shuttle to go back to Anchorage to fly home, everybody's in great spirits and we had a wonderful expedition. Neil and I are grateful to all the guys on the team for being so cooperative and strong and it was just an enjoyable expedition all the way around. 14.6 this is the final call, see you later.
6/24/03 5:30pm. Talkeetna, AK. BBIST.
Hey this is Eric Remza with the Buckaroo Banzai Intergalactic Space Travelers Expedition. We are standing here at the Talkeetna airport catching some rays, that's a good sign meaning that it is clearing up and we're getting ready to fly out in the next hour or so. Sitting next to me is Theresa Westover and Scott Westover and Fiona Muntz and Greg Hull-Ryde and holt Hunter. We're sitting here waiting for our plane. We have all of our gear nicely packed, sitting on the tarmac. I'll just give you a little run-down on what we did today: Since we had a rest day here in town, we were able to get a lot of our skill work done and also went out and checked out some sled dogs. Heather from Talkeetna Hostel is a sled dog racer and she took us out and showed us her 20 dogs, it was something of a Disney animation kind of movie. It was a lot of fun, we got a lot of information from that and it was time well spent out there.
Anyway we're planning on flying out to Base Camp 7,200 feet. We're going to probably spend one night there and we've already done most of our skill review so we're already ahead and ready to hit the glacier running. As long as weather is working for us we're going to probably give you a call...oh not for another three or four days, because cell phone reception is not good. So it will probably be when we do our carry from Camp I to about 10,000 feet we'll be able to get some cell phone reception until then. So for now his is The BBIST Expedition signing off.
6/24/03 4:09pm. 14K Camp, Denali, AK. Jumping Jumars.
Hey this is Jumping Jumars talking to all you friends and family out there, we just successfully made a carry up to 16,143 feet above sea level where we put our gear our food and fuels up there at High Camp and now we are dropping down to Genet Basin at 14,143 feet above sea level. And we're going to spend the night there and hopefully no storm comes in And then we will proceed up to our high Camp and then the following day drop down and pick up our cache. Everybody in the group is feeling well, we are a little tired from the carry but other than that they're all acclimatizing well and in good spirits. We're all thinking of you folks back home, just wanted you to know that.
Unfortunately Greg Shaw had an injury and we had to evacuate him out. Even though he wanted very much to go to the summit with us, we though it the wisest most conservative course was to send him out and make sure a doctor looked at his injury on his hand. Unfortunately we lost a very good man. He was quick with the wit, quick with the shovel and just a wonderful companion on the mountain and we are very sad to see him go. Thanks you so much for listening stay tuned, ciao for now.
6/24/03 10:55am. Talkeetna, AK. Team X.
Good morning this Joe Stock with Alpine Ascents Denali expedition #10, update for Tuesday June 24th. Our group has unanimously decided on the great big expedition name of "The Buckaroo Banzai Intergalactic Space Travelers." Yesterday we all got ready and waited. Rainy clouds on the lower glacier meant no flying. We covered some glacier travel skills and had a great time getting to know each other. Unfortunately Michael Collins won't be joining us. Our group size is now down to seven members total. We're hoping for a clearing today to fly in, cheers.
6/24/03 2:35am. 9,000 feet on Denali, AK. Team VI.
Hello this is Dave Morton with Captain America, Mad Dog and the Libertines. It is 2:30 in the morning on Tuesday morning the 24th of June, and we are at about 9,000 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier. We descended down from 17,000 feet this morning and had a safe descent. Spent the afternoon hanging out at the 14,000 foot Camp and had a great barbeque with the National Geographic Crew at their compound at 14,000 feet. Burgers on the barbeque and a great stir fry of fresh vegetables and then we got started at about 10:00pm and now we're down at about 9,000 feet. It's been kind of a surreal, beautiful evening, a little bit of whiteout and some of the bigger peaks sticking out through broken clouds. We are headed to Base Camp and we will give you a call when we arrive. This is Team IV saying bye bye.
6/23/03 8:50pm. 14K Camp, AK. Team Feeling It.
And good evening once again this is Willi reporting for Team Feeling It. We are here at 14.2 at Washburn Basin, all established after doing a heavy carry yesterday and a heavy back carry today. We're having a good time up here in the nice evening sun watching the spectacle. There's a few skiers up here, and we had some crazy individual sledding down on the other side not too long ago, I'm not quite exactly sure who that was. Also we've heard through the grapevine that there seems to be another competing team up here, something to the effect of "jumping jumars" and I think those wimps were pulling sleds up here, where we just decided that real men needed only packs and we left our sleds down at 11,000 feet. At any rate we're all doing great, we just all over d'd on a rib dinner tonight and looking forward to a rest day tomorrow. That's all from Washburn Basin.
6/23/03 6:55pm. 14K Camp, Denali, AK. Jumping Jumars.
Vern's lengthy dispatch was inaudible to to intense interference. They are at 14K Camp and are all doing well. They will try to call again tomorrow.
6/22/03 6:50pm. Summit of Denali, AK. Team VI.
Hey this is Dave Morton with Team IV of the Alpine Ascents Denali season. It is ten till 7pm on the 22nd of June and we are at the summit of Denali! Everyone is up here, everyone made it up so a big round of congratulations to everyone. We finally decided on a final name: Captain America, Mad Dog and the Libertines. A special congratulations today to Alberto, who with this summit completed the Seven Summits! He's the first Italian since Reinhold Messner to do so. Congratulations Alberto, Whoo!
We've been up here for about twenty minutes, taking photos and it's a beautiful day, some clouds are rolling in but they shouldn't hit us until we get back near high camp. Once again everybody made it to the summit and every single one of us is thinking about you Dan McKelway. This summit is for you man! We'll call you in the morning when we get up from 17,000 feet and start to make our descent. So for Team VI, this is Dave Morton, bye bye.
6/22/03 5:15pm. 17K Camp, Denali, AK. Team Feeling It.
Hello everybody, this is Willi reporting from 14,200 at Washburn Basin on Denali. Team Feeling It was feeling it today, we did a move from Camp III at 11,000 feet to Camp IV at 14,200 feet. Everybody is doing well however, we've had generally almost perfect weather, a couple of afternoons of white-outs and snow but we're up here and we really couldn't ask for better traveling conditions or better weather conditions. It's a bit hot today we were definitely feeling it in the sun as well today. But we are here now, we are looking forward to setting up camp and having a couple of days up here and guess what, it's ribs for dinner! That is all from Washburn Basin on Denali.
6/22/03 3:35pm. 19,500 feet on Denali, AK. Team VI.
Hey everybody out there in cybercast land, this is Dave Morton with Team VI and I'm sitting, it's June 22nd, and I'm sitting at 19,500 feet on the edge of the Football Field, near the summit of Denali. We're on our way up right now on a really beautiful day, and we've had a gorgeous morning and everyone is doing really well. Neil's rope team is about to come into view and they're going to take a break with us. I've got John, Mick and Alberto with me and they're doing great. It's about 3:30, we should be on the summit in a few hours and we've got a few clouds rolling in, but for the most part it's a great day, not much wind and everybody is doing well. Just checking in, we didn't call yesterday, we had another rest day. People weren't feeling to hot and the weather was a little inclement so we decided to wait until today. So we'll talk to you from the summit by bye.
6/22/03 3:30pm. Talkeetna, AK. Team IX.
Hey everybody this is Eric Larson of Alpine Ascents giving you a call and saying hi. Going out on another expedition today, today is Sunday the 22nd, which will be day 1 for us, it's about 3:30 and we're on the airstrip in Talkeetna. About ready to fly.. This trip I'm going to be working with Chad Kellogg, he'll be helping me out on the climb and I'd like to take this time to introduce some of the team members. From Austin Texas, we've got Dennis Tweedy. Jim Rethwish is coming down from the East. Then we have Stephanie Hutchinson from Seattle, WA and Kevin Pelletier, Kevin is a 17-year old student from Maryland climbing with us this year. Then our fifth member is Haroldo from Sao Paulo, Brazil by way of Miami, FL. Our team has five members this time with two guides so there's just seven of us, which makes it a lot easier, travel is faster.
The team looks good and everybody is really excited. We're ready to go and we'll try to give you another call and let you know what's going on. Unfortunately we don't have cell phone coverage until 10,000 feet and that will be about 3 days from now and we can give you guys an update on how the team is doing and what we're doing. Then the cell phone coverage goes bad for another couple of thousand feet until we arrive at the 14,000 foot camp about halfway up the mountain and we'll be able to give you regular updates for the rest of the month. Until then, don't worry about everybody here, we're going to look after each other and climb cleanly and have fun. Thanks for watching the cybercast and hope you catch the next one. This is Eric Larson, signing off.
6/20/03 8:30pm. 17K Camp, Denali, AK. Team VI.
Hello once again this is Dave Morton with Alpine Ascents Team VI on Denali. I am sitting on the edge of a rock overlooking the 14,000 foot camp, we are currently at the 17,000 foot camp and we just had a wonderful rest day. It's the first time we had any visibility, down below 17 today and Mount Foraker and Mount Hunter are just coming out. There's a sea of clouds below it's just a wonderful evening. It's about 8:30 on Friday evening and we are planning on going to the summit tomorrow morning. The forecast looks as though we've got some high pressure coming in so wee should have some clearing tomorrow afternoon and although the winds are predicted to be in the 20mph range so hopefully the temperatures will be warm enough, it has been quite warm up here since we've been here the last couple of nights. With that high pressure we may get a little bit of clearing but some colder temps and higher winds but it should be doable tomorrow so we're hoping for the best and everybody's really looking forward to it.
Today we spent a bunch of time hanging around camp it was nice and warm the sun was coming through some of the haze that we had up here, kind of low visibility but it made for a nice warm day hanging out. The National Geographic guys were doing a lot of filming and the rest of us just ate and drank and kept ourselves warm and everybody is getting really excited about tomorrow. So we'll call you from somewhere along the way tomorrow and hopefully from the summit as well. WE will talk to you then. Everyone here says hi to everyone out there and so for Alberto and the Bad Boys this is Dave Morton signing out.
6/19/03 8:03pm. 17K Camp, Denali, AK. Team VI.
Hey everyone out there this is Dave Morton with Alpine Ascents Team IV and it is 8:00 on the 19th of June we just arrived at the 17,000 foot camp and everybody is doing well, we just brewed up some soup and some hot drinks and we're getting a little rest. It fact everyone is so tired, we have yet to come up with a team name for the day so we'll have to think of one for tomorrow. Just wanted to get a quick call in and let everyone know that we're doing great and that we've made it up to 17 and we're going to take a rest day tomorrow and hopefully the weather looks good for trying to summit on Saturday, we'll give you a call tomorrow with some more info and let you know what we're up to.
6/19/03 2:29pm. Camp II, Denali, AK. Team VIII.
Hey everybody this is Willi calling from Camp II on Denali, 9,800 feet for the Team formerly known as Team VIII and now known as "Team Feeling it." Feeling it because we did a single carry from Base Camp to Camp I and everybody was Feeling it. At any rate we're having a great time, absolutely stellar weather here on Denali. The last couple of days there's been a few clouds. Now that we're high enough to get some phone reception here we can report that early on in the trip we had stellar, unlimited views, a few clouds the last couple of days, but in general it's been a very scenic trip here. Everybody is doing well, climbing strongly and looking forward to our move to Camp III at 11,000 feet tomorrow. We did a carry to Camp III at 11,000 feet today and had a great time. Also having a great time and now one day behind Vern's team, we are harassing them every chance we get. That's the latest from Team Feeling It on Denali in the wonderful 24 hours of daylight of the Alaskan summer.
6/18/03 9:18pm. 14K Camp, Denali, AK. Team VI.
Hey everybody this is Neil McCarthy with Team VI at 14,000 feet on Denali. It's been a nice day we woke up late, drank a bunch of coffee and played "Name that Band" on the classic rock radio station for many many hours today. We had a good time and we're wondering if anyone can remember some of the big hits that Molly Hatchet or April Wine had, we just couldn't come up with what their big songs were, so feel free to call Kristine Kitayama and let her know so that she can relay to us so we can have that information as we go up the mountain. Pretty important to this crew at this point.
It snowed most of the day and just a couple of hours ago, the clouds broke and we're staring at beautiful views of Foraker and Hunter and looking up on the mountain things look nice and we plan on moving up tomorrow. We had a nice conversation about all the things we need to make sure we take up and what we're going to leave behind and everyone is pretty excited to move up an hopefully we'll be calling you from 17 tomorrow. other than that it's been quite an international sort of event around here at 14. There's a big Japan Team there's a team from Chile there's some folks from Scotland, folks from Czechoslovakia, some Brits. We have our own international player on our team, we have Alberto from Milan, Italy tonight, said when Dave was making macaroni and cheese that while it may be American Pasta and American Cheese and American tuna fish, it had an Italian supervisor making sure it would be a good pasta meal.
That's about it for us, we're having a great time and excited to get moving up. Take care.
6/18/03 11:51am. Camp II, Denali, AK. Jumping Jumars.
Hey friends and family, this is Vern Tejas with the Jumping Jumars of Alpine Ascents, high on the flanks of Mt. McKinley. We're on the middle of the Kahiltna Glacier, up by Kahiltna Pass, Camp II. We just made a successful carry up to Camp III of food and fuel. And now we are taking a nap and man are we enjoying it. The weather though that has promised to turn into a low-pressure system is still quite reasonable, we had about an inch of snow last night, a little bit of wind but right now it is calm and we can see several miles down the Kahiltna.
People's spirits are soaring. Hey Cameron your Father says "Happy Birthday on your 11th birthday! And I hope you get all the wishes you wish for today". And I'd also like to say that Willi's group is camping near ours and we're enjoying their company. We'll see them sporadically once or twice a day or so we cross trails with them, so it's always fun to speak with old friends off of other climbs, that's been a source of enjoyment.
The big plan is to move up to Camp III, god willing, and weather permitting we'll be there about 10 or 11:00 tomorrow, getting up at 4 in the morning and climbing before the heat of the day. It will be quite intense up here on the glacier. Ciao for now and see you soon, this is Vern saying goodbye from 9,143 feet above sea level, Camp II, goodbye.
6/17/03 9:21pm. Camp II, Denali, AK. Jumping Jumars.
Hey boys and girls, this is Vern Tejas with Alpine Ascents Jumping Jumars. We've now moved up to Camp II on the Kahiltna Glacier, just below Kahiltna Pass. The weather has been cooperative all day long, we've had blue skies, clear weather, calm, only now is a low pressure starting to come in and cloud up. All team members are in good spirits and acclimatizing well. We're looking forward to moving food and fuel up tomorrow to Camp III at 11,143 feet above sea level. Currently it's night time and we're all going to bed, and we're getting up at 4:00 in the morning. So please join us tomorrow and hopefully we'll have another cybercast for you. Ciao for now, Vern clear.
6/17/03 8:49pm. 14K on Denali, AK. Team VI.
Hey everybody out there this is Dave Morton once again with Team VI, or today, Operation Yeti Freedom. We had a great day carrying up to 16,000 feet today. It was absolutely beautiful, high pressure, gorgeous views of the range, some of the best visibility I've ever seen up here, we were able to see all the way down the Kahiltna, throughout the Southern part of the Alaska Range, from the viewpoint of 14,000 feet. So it's gorgeous.
Right now it's about 8:45 and we've got some clouds rolling in this evening and over the next couple of days. Looks like the weather prediction may be accurate this time, we've got a bunch of big thunderheads rolling in from the west. Everybody is doing really really well, the whole team was very strong during our ascent up to 16,000 up the fixed lines and I think everybody truly enjoyed getting to feel like they were doing some real climbing going up those fixed lines.
I've got a message from Todd tonight. Todd sends his love to his wife Stacie and daughters Calyx and Caven, and special thanks June and Francis for helping out while Todd's away. Todd's been wanting me to get that out for a few days and it's finally getting out.
We just got done feeding our friend Chad Kellogg, a fellow Seattleite and friend of mine from college, he's also going to be working our last trip with Eric Larson, I believe it's the last trip starting this Sunday, the 22nd. We just fueled him up, he was trying to break the speed record from Base Camp to the summit on Denali and he did it by quite a bit, he just summited a few hours ago and did it in 14 hours, 22 minutes, so we want to say a big congrats to Chad Kellogg, who's actually about to leave 14,000 Camp here to try to make it back to Base Camp within 24 hours. Congrats Chad!
The rest of us on the team want to say hi to all of our loved ones, we want to let everyone know that we are doing well and having a great time and we're in great position to summit here in the next three or four days, weather dependent. If we get weather for the next few days, no that we have our cache up at 16 we just need to move on up to 17 and then one more day to the summit. We're sitting in good shape and everyone is doing well. We'll cal tomorrow we're going to take a rest day and go out to the Edge of the World and we'll talk to you then, bye bye.
6/16/03 9:44am. 10K on Denali, AK. Jumping Jumars.
Hello cybernauts, this is Vern Tejas with Alpine Ascents Jumping Jumars. Yes today we're moving up the hill, finally hitting the slopes and gaining some altitude. We're up to 9,143 feet above sea level and we're looking down on all creation, point Ferrene stick out out above the clouds. We've got this ethereal effect with clouds everywhere except for little patches of clue above us. Everybody is doing quite well and for the first time we are actually going up the hill. We've done a long traverse to Camp I and now we're shuttling gear and food and fuel up o tour new campsite at Camp II, which is going to be about 9,500 feet.
We're currently experiencing rather warm temperatures, we've been post holing a little bit so we're trying to stay on the hard pack of the trail. People are enjoying it. We're learning everybody's jokes and learning how everybody snores at night and on top of that just generally getting to know one another. It's such a treat, what a good group we have. So please stay tuned and we'll try to keep you abreast of the situation as it were. Sorry we're a little sporadic, the connections are very hard to make down low on the mountain due to the Alaska Range hills sticking up between us and the phone company we might night give another one for a few days until Windy Corner, but if you're lucky, you'll get one sooner. Stay tuned, ciao for now.
6/15/03 2:41pm. 14K on Denali, AK. Team VI.
Hey everybody this is Dave Morton again with Team VI, or "The Heather Graham Appreciation Expedition." In tribute and honor to Heather Graham and all the good that she brings to the world, namely her roles in Austin Powers and Boogie Nights. Anyway we're on Denali at about 14,000 feet, it is June 15th, Father's Day. Everybody on the team wants to wish their fathers out there a great Father's Day. It's a beautiful day right now, extremely warm, we're all in t-shirts. Up above a cloud layer has come in today over the Kahiltna Glacier, but it's just a gorgeous day, everybody is pretty excited to get to camp.
We're at 14,000 feet and we've got another couple of hundred feet to go, probably about 20 minutes before we get to roll into 14,000 foot Camp. Everybody's doing great and our plan tomorrow is to get up late, which everybody is looking forward to, come back and retrieve our cache at 13,500 and then the following day, maybe we'll carry up. There's supposed to some snow coming in Tuesday or Wednesday, but we'll see what happens when Tuesday comes along. We will talk to you tomorrow and get back in touch during our somewhat of a rest day, take care, bye bye.
6/15/03 12:29am. Talkeetna, AK. Flight Level 210.
Hello this is Flight Level 210. We have landed in Talkeetna, this is the 14th of June, just about 12:00 going into the 15th. Last time we spoke was at about 8,400 feet after descending down to 14.2, we ended up traveling all night long and arriving into Kahiltna Base Camp, which is 7,200, at around 7:00 this morning. And it took us a while to get on the registered flight unfortunately. We had three teams ahead of us that prevented us from flying until 6:00 at night and that was the last one with Jeff Peck and we flew in and I think we got home into Talkeetna at around 8:30at night, so we just sat around for close to 12 hours. We ended up traveling from 17,200 feet down to 7,200 feet in around 19 hours and it was one of the most beautiful weather times that I've actually had after so many years of climbing on the mountain. Around Windy Corner was almost breathless and the sun was setting in our faces and it was just totally tranquil. So everyone is actually back down in Talkeetna, we got all the people out, we actually have gear still on the Kahiltna, bad weather forecasted in Talkeetna, thunderstorms etc, actually prevented more birds from going out and picking us up and our equipment so we still have equipment at 7,200, so we have to wait on Sunday the 15th of June, for that equipment to come out, before we can get down to Anchorage and rearrange our flights to get out early.
So to family and friends, part of the team that journeyed with us, this is our last cybercast from Flight Level 210, A very successful trip from Day 1 all the way through to the summit and back down safely, so that everyone can go off into their world and be with their family and tell their co-workers what a journey they had and what they've learned and grown. Really it's an honor to have worked with Eric, to have the clients including Frank to begin with and we put a lot of respect to you Frank, and to the summiteers, Tom and Jeff, Noah and Doug and Kenny. This is from Flight Level 210 from Talkeetna, and the famous Fairview Hotel and Bar, sending you guys all of our best and hope to see you in the future, cheers.
6/14/03 4:24pm. Talkeetna, AK. Team VIII.
Hey this is Willi Prittie reporting from the airport in Talkeetna, AK. Erik Barnes and I along with Camilo Pavone, Kathy Jackoway, Michael Lagana, Jeff Dossett, Andy Headley, Bruce Legnard are about to fly in and begin expedition #8 for Alpine Ascents today. We actually have not chosen a team name yet, but by the time we do the next cybercast for everybody, we in fact will have a team name. Hopefully this very diverse group will come to an agreement here. We're looking at breezy conditions, probably will be a bit of a bumpy ride going in, there's been a few problems with some airplanes here the past few days, so we're in waiting mode here today, so it will probably be quite a while before we can actually fly in to the glacier to begin our expedition. We're all psyched, ready to go and you'll hear more from us later.
6/14/03 2:09pm. 11K on Denali, AK. Team VI.
Hello Folks this is Lieutenant Love and the Harry Necked Crew. It is a gorgeous day, we just carried up to 13.5 and we're making our way back down. Skies are clear but it's quite windy up high. Yesterday was a big day, there were reports of up to 100 people summiting, after many days of bad weather up high and folks waiting in Camp. But today I don't think anyone is summiting though. It's windy up high, we see the spindrift coming off the top but we're all well and getting acclimatized, had a nice carry today, and we're heading back down to enjoy a nice afternoon of sitting around, drinking water and taking in the views. Okay, Nick wants to say hello to his Dad, he says "Thinking of you eating mangoes in Queensland." That's about all for us now, thanks for checking in we'll talk to you soon.
6/13/03 11:50pm. 10K on Denali, AK. Flight Level 210.
Hello this is Flight Level 210 (transmission fails. Editor's Note: Poor reception caused most of the dispatch to be inaudible. The Team was safely back down to high Camp. Very Windy and clod descent from high camp, lots of climbers on the ridge. They stopped for hot drinks at 14K Camp. They were about half way between 14K Camp and Base Camp when they made the call and anticipated another few hours before arriving at the landing strip at Kahiltna Base. They will call again once they reach Talkeetna.)
6/13/03 7:22pm. Talkeetna AK. Team VII.
Hello cybernauts this is Vernon Tejas with the Jumping Jumars Expedition. We're having a wonderful bit of luck on this Friday the 13th. The weather is fantastic and we're being treated to thrilling views of the Alaska Range. Denali dominates the vista, rising majestically over the glaciers as we are practicing our snow-travel technique. Our Team consists of Mike Gillam, Mark King, Jeanne Stawiecki, Gregory Shaw, Kevin DeVries, and Kevin Gifford. They are psyched and ready to go. Working with me is the eclectic Eric Murphy.
As a team our chances look good, especially if the weather continues to cooperate. We'll review our skills today and leave early tomorrow and make a food and fuel carry to Camp I. ciao for now. Vernon Tejas signing out from elevation 7,143 feet.
6/13/03 11:58am. 17K Camp, Denali, AK. Nice Marmots.
Good morning this is Joe Stock with Alpine Ascents Denali Team IV. Update for Friday June 13th. We all made it safely back to high camp from the summit. The round trip of our climb was 13 hours. Though 2 hours of that was probably waiting in line on the narrow trail. This morning we slept in and had a leisurely breakfast while the gusting wind blew itself out. Now we're heading down to the banana belt. Cheers.
6/13/03 11:33am. 10,000 feet on Denali, AK. Team VI.
Hey Everybody this is Dave Morton from Team IV, currently calling ourselves Captain America, Mad Dog, and the Libertines. It is Friday the 13th of June and it's about 11:30 in Alaska. Right now we are at 10,000 feet, just over 10K and we are digging up our cache which we have come to retrieve from here after spending last night at the 11,000 foot camp. It's a beautiful day down here on the upper Kahiltna. It was a little bit windy up at 11 Camp but once we got down here and turned the corner , it's just completely clear skies and very little wind, gorgeous day. Looks like it's quite windy up high tough. You can see lots of spindrifts and plumes coming off the West Buttress proper. We're hoping that we get to see Teams IV and V coming down today. Hoping that they had some success at the summit. Sounded like they had some tough weather at 14,000 and it took them quite a while to move up, we've got some friends on those team and it will be nice to see the guides as well.
Today we've got a pretty easy day, we're down here picking up our cache it will take us about an hour and half to get back. And then we've got the rest of the afternoon to lounge around and get caught up on sleep. Everyone's doing well. Mick sends a message to Big Sal, and he wants to say "Have fun in Thailand and to Greg and Lindsay, thinking of you."
Right now the rest of the guys are digging up the cache and we're about to get out of here. We want to send all of our best wishes to everyone out there. Tomorrow we're hoping to carry a cache load to 13,500 feet around Windy Corner. We know we can get some reception there, so if the weather's good we'll be doing that and we'll try to give a call from hopefully a windless Windy Corner. We'll talk to you soon, bye bye.
6/12/03 6:10pm. Summit of Denali, AK. Nice Marmots.
Hi this is Mike Roberts for Alpine Ascents Denali IV. Right now I am standing on the summit of Denali along with seven members, Dave Wiley, Tim Archer, Brian Ballinger, Donald Bender, Douglas Atkins, Joe Stock, and myself Mike Roberts. 6pm here , it's a beautiful day, day 19 for us, a great reward for all the hard work, five, six storms. Here we are, everybody is jubilant at the thought of being up here. They would all like to send personal messages to family and friends, but I'm afraid you're just going to have to imagine that they did that and what those messages are. Best wishes and hold the fort, and we'll give you a message when we get back down to 17 tonight. Mike Roberts, Alpine Ascents Denali clear.
(Editor's note: As is typical on a summit day, all members are happy but extremely tired. They have to now focus on getting down safely and preserving their strength and warmth for the descent to high camp. Congratulations Team)
6/12/03 5:00pm. Summit of Denali, AK. Flight Level 210.
Hello this is Flight Level 210. We have full clearance for landing on the summit of Denali. We're at 20,320 feet. Everyone has summited. It's a clear day, we're seeing 360 degrees. And it is gorgeous. Everyone is happy. It took us a little longer than we thought. But that's okay. The time here is I believe, 5:00, so it took us a good, looks like eight hours up, hopefully about three hours down. We'll get down for some tucker and get back home. Back down to the lowlands. Okay just to let everyone know we're taking photos and everyone is smiling and we send our love to family and friends around the world. We'll talk to you when we get down to lower elevation, ciao.
(Editor's Note: The team called back about ten minutes later, each relayed a personal message, but as often happens as a cell phone is passed around, the phone experienced particularly poor reception. They each expressed wonder at the surroundings and elation and sent their love to those who are dear to them. Congratulations team.)
6/12/03 12:24pm. 10,000 feet on Denali, AK. Team VI.
Hey everybody out there this is Dave Morton calling in from Team VI. We haven't figured out a name so I think I'm going to list a different name each day I call in. Today we are the Afro-Italian-American-Technicolor-Flora Expedition. Anyway we're sitting here on a beautiful day at 10,000 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier an it's the first beautiful day we've had so far, we've had a little bit of light wind but beautiful skies so it hasn't been too hot. We left 7,8000 foot camp at the base of Ski Hill at about 7:15 and we're carrying on up to 11,000 feet where we're going to make camp tonight. And then tomorrow we will come back to this spot at 10,000 feet where we left a cache and carry this load back up to 11,000 feet. So the following day we're going to be trying to make a cache up at 13.5 and hopefully the weather will cooperate. We've been hearing that a little bit of a low pressure system is coming in, but it sounds like it won't be too high winds. We should have a good opportunity in the next three days to get up to 14,000 feet.
Everyone is doing well, feeling good. John has a special message to Sophie, he says, "Happy Birthday, Happy Number 6 Sophie" We all send our best wishes to all of our loved ones out there and we'll get in touch with you as soon as we have reception which maybe at 11 in the next couple of days or it may be when we are caching up around Windy Corner two days from now, Saturday. We will talk to you then, take care bye bye.
6/12/03 10:52am. 17,200 Camp, Denali, AK. Flight Level 210.
Hello everyone this is Flight Level 210. We are clear for a summit today, the 12th of June. We got up at 5:00 this morning and checked the weather. The wind was decreasing on the pass and the sky was brilliantly blue. We just made it up to 18.2 and the team is cruising right along. All seven of us are doing well at 18.2, going up to Archdeacon's Tower probably in the next two, two and a half hours, we'll hopefully be on the summit in the next three or four hours. We'll keep in touch from the summit on down. We've got 360 degree vista today. So we're pretty happy. A lot of people are heading up to the summit, we'll talk to you soon.
6/12/03 8:06am. 17,200 Camp, Denali, AK. Nice Marmots.
Good morning all you cybercasters, this is Mike Roberts with Alpine Ascents Denali Team IV, the Nice Marmots. Today is Thursday 12th of June. At last the day has dawned a bit clearer in Alaska, fine with clear skies and the hope of manageable winds. The Nice Marmots are making a summit attempt and they depart Camp at about 8:30am. I will keep you updated as to our safe return to high camp, our thoughts are with you best wishes Mike Roberts.
6/11/03 3:45pm. 9,500 feet on Denali, AK. Team VI.
Hey everyone out there this is Dave Morton calling in from the 6th Alpine Ascents Team on Denali this season,. It is June 11th, Wednesday and it is 3:45pm here in Alaska. Right now we're at about 9,500 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier and we're descending after dropping a cache up at about 10,000 feet. We're descending to our camp at the base of Ski Hill. We just wanted to give everyone out there a little re-cap of what's happened so far.
We flew in on June 8th, on Sunday and had a little bit of an afternoon hanging around Talkeetna, because there was not enough visibility to fly, so ended up getting in on Sunday night into Base Camp, setting up our camp and then the following day we did some review and worked on rope travel and all those good things that we need to know for this climb. And unfortunately Dan McKelway as we were cutting some perlon for our glacier rig, sliced open his finger pretty significantly and ended up having to fly out. He had about a dozen stitches. Dan's a clarinet player for the Cleveland Orchestra and due to making a living off of his hands he decided it probably wasn't a good idea to come back up here, so Dan's off the team which is really too bad, we are going to miss him. That was our rest day. (Editor's note: Dan has since called in to let everyone know that he and his finger and are doing just fine now, and he wishes the team the best of luck).
Yesterday we moved up to the base of Ski Hill at 7,800 feet. and then today we went all the way up to 10,000 feet. Today has been really nice, the nicest day so far. We've had a couple of nights of downpour actually, it's been raining, early June up here on Denali which is pretty unusual. We've had a little bit of funky weather. It looks like a little bit of weather is coming in over the Kahiltna Pass right now too but we were roasting up here today, it was pretty hot and pretty beautiful. Anyway we will get in touch with you guys tomorrow as we move on up the Kahiltna and let you know how things are going. So from Denali, Alberto, John, Mick, Harry and Todd all say hi to their loved ones as well as myself and Neil. We'll talk to you soon bye bye.
6/11/03 2:30pm. 17,200 Camp, Denali, AK. Flight Level 210.
Hello this is Flight Level 210, we're at 17,200 still, 11th of June, I called in last night. It's about 2:30 in the afternoon and it's storming. We woke up at about 5:00 this morning and tried to go for the summit and just got hammered with high winds and poor visibility and an icy cloud right now. Temperatures dropped pretty low; minus 10 something like that in the morning. People (other climbers) are starting to run out of food and gas up here at 17.2, they're all moving out, they're actually packing up as I am watching them right now, moving down the fixed lines back to 14 to go fly out. The weather forecast is not that good, but we're going to hang in there for another couple of days. We have another two full days of food and fuel and we're just going to hang and hopefully the weather is going to turn for us. So just to let everyone know we are still at 17.2, haven't progressed much from here because of the weather and we'll try again in about 12 hours and let you guys know what's happening. See you later bye bye.
6/11/03 9:20am. 17,200 Camp, Denali, AK. Nice Marmots.
Good morning, this is Joe Stock with Alpine Ascents Denali Expedition #4 update for Wednesday June 11th. Yesterday it was snowing in camp and blowing up on the ridges so we couldn't try for the summit. Unfortunately we have the same weather today. If you see snow blowing off the ridges above camp and skies are clear then its a "no go" for the summit because of the wind chill. Today the snow is pluming high above the ridges.
Today we will head down below camp to retrieve a couple more days food from the cache. Then we'll keep our fingers crossed for tomorrow.
6/10/03 9:45pm. 17,200 Camp, Denali, AK. Flight Level 210.
Hello this is Flight Level 210. I'm calling around 9:45 on the 10th of June. We were in a cloud all day today. It was fairly warm during the day, and about 6:00-7:00 the clouds lifted and the temperature dropped about 30 degrees just like that in about 15 minutes. So we're looking up right now, high winds on the mountain. The team's all psyched up, we've got a good weather report for tomorrow, Wednesday the 11th of June. So we'll get up at 5 and check the weather, start brewing up and take off for Denali Pass, which is 18.2 and then on to the summit which is 20,320 feet. So we're thinking about all you guys along the way. I just want to send special thanks to my parents Leo and Mathilda Schmidt since I've just had a birthday today, I'm 43, so thanks Mom and Dad. To my son and daughter in New Zealand, I love you very much and I'm thinking of you every day. I'm going to bring the phone with us to the summit, so hopefully we can do a cybercast from up there. We'll see what the weather does tomorrow, it's still pretty fickle, but looking pretty promising. All our best to friends and family, we'll talk to you tomorrow hopefully form the summit.
6/10/03 1:06pm. 17,200 Camp, Denali, AK. Flight Level 210.
Hello this is Flight Level 210, and we're in the clouds at 17,200 feet. It's around 12:00 on the 10th of June. All of us are doing okay, we had a good night's sleep. We had good food and fluid. We're looking up at the mountain right now, very high winds, with the summit cap starting to happen. I just phoned up the weather and it's supposed to be clearing for tomorrow. Winds coming out of the Northeast, that's what we're looking for. Temperature right now is probably zero with the wind chill factor. I've got Jeff here with me, and I've got Doug and I've got Tom and we're standing right over "The Edge" looking down at the 14.2 camp. And it's just starting to clear up and we can see a city down there. It's about 3,000 feet below us. Not too much movement on the ridge can't really see it right now, it's in a whiteout.
Tomorrow is definitely a hopeful day for summit. there's been about close to 11 people who pushed the trail up to Denali Pass, eight of them are coming back down because of too much wind up high for them to keep going. So trail-breaking won't be as hard tomorrow. For the crew, we're hanging it there and waiting for better weather for the summit. And we're thinking of friends and family all around the world and I have to plug in one thing for Sebastian Joe's, all you people there, Jeff tells me you guys got a new computer there and are looking us up every day from 10 to 11 after your run, so he's thinking about you guys. We'll talk to you probably tonight and let you know about the weather.
6/10/03 9:20am. 17,200 Camp, Denali, AK. Nice Marmots.
Hello all you cybercasters, this is Mike Roberts with Alpine Ascents Denali 4, Nice Marmots. Yesterday we completed a camp move from 16,200 feet to 17,200 feet. Yet again we were enveloped in heavily falling snow and white out conditions. The scenic wonders of the West Buttress have yet to reveal themselves to the team. Then it was the now-familiar routine of building snow blocks to fortify our camp. After a night in an ice cave, everybody now had a new-found appreciation of tent camping. Today the winds on the upper mountain are spent. Presently we are biding our time with a brunch routine but we may yet go for it. The weather forecast is promising for tomorrow, so it's also possible that we will wait. Hi to folks back home and we'll keep you updated on our progress. Bye for now.
6/9/03 5:45pm. 17,200 Camp, Denali, AK. Flight Level 210.
Hello this is Flight Level 210. I'm at The Balcony looking straight down at 14,200, I'm at 17.2 with everybody just sending good words to Frank who's probably on a plane home right now back to the Bay Area, so we're thinking of you every step of the way Frank, hopefully you'll tap into the cybercast and follow along with us.
Looking straight down onto the headwall I can see three people climbing up into the storm. There's a little bit of a break in the clouds. Yesterday when we climbed up the headwall on the fixed lines, climbing up to 16.2, we went right into a storm and Jeff wanted me to mention that it wasn't a piece of cake to establish our bivouac ledge there. It took us three and half hours to do it and most of it was in a storm, the sun only came out towards the end. And the same thing happened just now, we took off at about 12:30 from 16.2 made it to 17.2 in about two and a half hours. Started digging out a platform, we are basically in a storm once again. Major storm, major clouds, freezing level is way down, like minus 5 right now, wind chill probably takes it down to a minus 20, so I'm not going to stay out here too long. I've Got reception out here, oh maybe about 100 meters from our tents.
The idea for tomorrow is the weather is still going to be bad, with clouds, Wednesday is supposed to be clearing, so we're looking at probably the 11th of June is when we're going to try and do a summit bid. Wednesday and Thursday look good with clouds coming in on Friday again. To everybody once again this is Flight level 210 wishing you better weather than we're having.
6/9/03 10:00am. 16,200 Camp, Denali, AK. Nice Marmots.
Hi this is Mike Roberts for Alpine Ascents Denali 4, Nice Marmots. it's 10:00am June 9th. Yesterday started with a parting of the ways. Laurent Dick and John Hill headed down to Base Camp. The high spirited company will be missed. The remainder of the team donned heavy packs and headed for high camp. A combination of fresh snow and crowding made progress extremely slow. On arriving at the base of the fixed ropes we had to wait two hours. Approximately one tenth of the people attempting Denali this season were on the fixed ropes yesterday. It was quite the scene. Then what's more the promised god weather deteriorated into heavy snow flurries. Given these circumstances, Team Marmots opened up an historical ice cave at 16,000 foot for the night. An experience all will remember, and in fact it was quite warm for most I think. As I speak, we're heading to the 17,000 foot camp to prepare for a summit bid. Our thoughts are with friends, family, loved ones and the task ahead. Cheers for now, Mike.
6/9/03 9:09am. 16,200 Camp, Denali, AK. Flight Level 210.
Hello this is Flight Level 210, we're at 16.2 just after 9:00 in the morning. It's a brisk morning we go thigh clouds pretty much down in the south and the weather forecast I just phoned up it looks like it's going to be continuing high clouds today, with temperatures dropping below zero at 17,000 where we're heading, with a Tuesday outlook of scattered clouds starting to break up, with a Tuesday Wednesday forecast looking good for summit time. Just to let everyone at home know that.
Everyone slept well at 16.2, no headaches and feeling rested on our little perch and now it's time to brew up and head on out. Last night I tried to do a cybercast with the midnight sun we had a beautiful sunset at 12, just outside the tent door and everything was a blissful orange, it was fantastic. Everyone is fine and we're moving up to 17.2 today and we'll give you a call fro there. Everyone have a good afternoon.
6/8/03 9:03pm. 16,200 Camp, Denali, AK. Flight Level 210.
Hello this is Flight Level 210, we're at 16,200 feet. We decided to leave this morning for an alpine ascent. We packed up everything and we came up here amongst I'd say close to 150 people ahead of us because of the good weather forecast for Monday. We let them go ahead and we took off about 1:00 in the afternoon and two hours ago arrived at 16.2 it took us 2.5 hours to cut out a platform, we had to build up the walls and a lot of manpower to get it constructed. But now we're sitting perched on the side of the 16.2 ridge and everyone is smiling. We've got the sun - as soon as the last tent stake went in, the sun came out and greeted us with some warmth. And right now it is coming in and out of the clouds but we're still happy to see it.
Temperature coming up was cold, probably about 10-15 degrees, and while digging out our shelter and platform it probably dropped down to 5 degrees with the wind chill factor. So now we all have our down jackets on and most of us are still outside soaking up the sun. Weather forecast it looks like we've got blue sky ahead of us above us right now, there's still some murky clouds to the south but we do have a western wind right now, southwestern, and that's a good indicator for some weather tomorrow. My hands are freezing right now so I'm not going to stay on long, we'll probably wait until we get some hot drinks in us and then we'll do another call because you guys are probably pretty interested in what it's like up here. Our plan is to get up to 17 tomorrow. We'll talk a little bit more about that this evening. Bye bye.
6/7/03 9:28pm. 14,200 feet on Denali, AK. Nice Marmots.
Good evening this is Joe Stock with the Alpine Ascents Denali expedition #4. Update for Saturday June 7th. We're still at 14,000 feet. A couple of feet of snow dumped on us last night and we awoke to the roar of avalanches in the distance. High winds during the day kept us tent bound. Tomorrow we'll be moving to high Camp at 17,000 feet if the weather allows. For now, we're all hitting the hay. Cheers family and friends.
6/7/03 8:18pm. 14,200 Camp, Denali, AK. Flight Level 210.
Hello to everyone this is Flight Level 210. We're just coming out of a storm, it's 8:00 on Saturday the 7th of June. Best wishes to family and friends, letting you know we're all still at 14.2 waiting out the storm. We've had about 16 inches of snow fall on us and we're busy today just clearing out the tents and go building snow walls and hunkering down. We've had a lot of high winds. Unfortunately the weather forecast means tonight some more inches of snow, which will load the slopes up high with more avalanche danger so we might let it settle for the day but anything can change up here. We are getting some blue sky right now, forecast for Sunday the day is to break up a little bit more with clearing on Monday. So that's what we have to go by. We're going to try to get up high as soon as we can and cache our gear and from there try for a summit bid. We'll try and touch base with everyone tomorrow, bye bye from 14.2.
6/7/03 10:28am. 14,200 Camp, Denali, AK. Flight Level 210.
Hello to everyone this is Flight Level 210. It's a snowing morning; we have close to 12 and 14 inches of new snow so that means our team is sleeping in. And we won't be able to push our cache up to our high point until it settles down. Too much avalanche danger. So this morning we'll just be digging out all the tents and getting the Posh Tent up for cooking and getting food and fluid into everybody and basically ask everyone to rest and be prepared to go up as soon as the weather clears. We'll probably call later on to let you know about the weather and our progress but for now we are safe and sound at 14,200 feet on the side of Denali. We'll talk soon again bye bye.
6/6/03 8:58pm. 14,200 feet on Denali, AK. Nice Marmots.
Hello folks this is Mike Roberts giving you an update on the progress of Alpine Ascents Denali 4, ostensibly known as Nice Marmots. As you can gather I voted for Bob's your Uncle, but maybe you worked that out considering I'm a Kiwi. Today Friday 6th of June, started rather earlier than some would have liked. 6am with a chow down on French Toast. Then in the thick murk and lightly falling snow, we headed up the fixed lines that make passage up the headwall safe. on arrival at our 16,000 location we dug a deep hole in the snow and buried our provisions of fuel and food for our upcoming summit attempt. 6 straight hours after departing we were back at camp thinking how much thicker the air is at 14,000 feet. The mist was also thicker than ever. A quick nap, dinner, the usual verbal bantering humor and our kitchen cleaned, all are heading to bed for night 13 on Denali. The conversation is starting to drift toward those favorite foods back at home and the things we are looking forward to doing on arrival. But we've still got a big week ahead of us. Best wishes to all and hello for now, Mike Roberts.
6/6/03 7:15pm. 14,200 Camp, Denali, AK. Flight Level 210.
Hello this is Flight Level 210, we're at 14,200 feet. It's 7:15 on the evening of the 6th of June. Everybody went down to get our cache at 13.3 today and made it back up in good time. We're all just finishing up dinner and we're looking forward to saying some simple words to our families and friends. All the folks wrote down some quotes so I'll go ahead with those in a minute. But first off for tomorrow, which will be the 7th, weather permitting we're going to go up and try to establish a cache around 16.4 up on the ridge and get back down. The National Weather forecast says it looks like Sunday clearing, Monday and Tuesday actually clear so our goal is to basically get up to 17.2 and establish ourselves there for a summit bid around that time. So that gives everybody an idea of what we're up to, there's one other team that's one day ahead of us, in time, that's Alpine 4 and we're about with them.
Tom writes: "Soft white snow floats all around. Red boots squeak each step. She whispers to the soul now." That's a haiku he thought of just now when going down to get the food.
Jeff: "Dear Laura, feeling good and motivated to move higher. Lots of love. Dear Kids, have fun picking out a puppy tomorrow, love dad."
Noah: "Big hugs and kisses to everyone, especially Gillian, Abigail, Tori ,Mitchell, Oscar, Theo and Bianca, love Noah."
Eric: "Hi mom and dad, lots of love. hello to Megan and Brenna in Syracuse, love uncle Eric."
Frank: "Hi Anita Dave Pete, Glauco. What a place this 14.2, its a real city up here."
Doug: "Greetings from 14.2. Great Scenery in a spectacular setting. Feeling fine and enjoying the climb.
Marty:" I'm sending all my love to Mom and Dad. and to my son Denali and my daughter Sequoia. I'm thinking of you all the time."
I think we'll do another cast tomorrow after we get down from the fixed lines and let you know how the weather went and how we're feeling and we'll go from there. See you later from 14.2, bye.
6/5/03 9:07pm. 14,200 feet on Denali, AK. Flight Level 210.
Hello to everyone, this is Flight Level 210. We just made it up to 14,200. This day is the 5th of June and it took us around 7 hours from 11,200, our last camp to 14.2 We had to stop along the way to pick up some food, some white gas and some famous lunches with a lot of bagels that Noah Katz can't live without. So our situation when we came into camp was it was snowing and we got our camp set up in an hour and a half, everybody worked really efficiently and worked together, we just had dinner and hot drinks and people are tired; they need to get into their sleeping bags and get some sleep. We did a weather check and it looks like there will still be some snowing and some storm weather happening on Friday, Saturday and a little bit on Sunday. So hopefully on Friday, tomorrow, we'll be able to get our cache up here so that everything will be at 14,200 and then on Saturday the 7th we might be able to push some food and equipment up to the headwall along the 16.2 to 17.2 ridge.
The next day we might rest and then try to get up to 17,200 on the ninth and try for the summit on the 10th if the weather is good. So from everybody here, we want to say hello to everyone and to let you know that we are doing well. One person on our expedition, Frank Borrone, he did a gallant effort to get up here to 14.2. He's a bit tired and overwhelmed and he has decided to head down so we are arranging a another guide to be able to take down himself and another climber from another expedition, Alpine Ascents #4. So Laurent might take them down when the weather clears. We really send all our best to Frank, he did a wonderful job and he worked well with the team and we're going to miss him. Other than that we are cozy up here at 14,200 feet and the temperature has definitely dropped and we're thinking about family and friends. We send our love to everyone, we'll talk again tomorrow.
6/5/03 9:04pm. 13,300 feet on Denali, AK. Nice Marmots.
Good evening this is Joe Stock with an Alpine Ascents Denali update for Thursday June 5th, Expedition #4. We woke this morning to increasing clouds and a drop in barometer. By noon snow had fallen and the wind was howling. We amused ourselves with a walk to the Edge of The World to see the dramatic views of the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. We also beefed up the snow walls around our Posh House cook tent. Now it is calm and snowing lightly. Hopefully we'll make a carry to 16,000 tomorrow. For now we're crawling into our sleeping bags. Cheers family and friends.
6/5/03 6:51pm. 13,300 feet on Denali, AK. Wired And Ready.
Hey everybody this is Eric Larson with the Wired and Ready expedition. It's the day after our expedition I'd like to say thanks for everybody's support and it was a good climb. Justin wanted to say Hey to the guys in Kelly, WY and wanted to thank them for the support they offered him for his climb, Justin did great. Pete I hope your puppies are doing well, he had to skedaddle pretty quickly out of Talkeetna last night we didn't really get to say goodbye.
I hope everybody knows that we did summit, everybody did a really good job. They finished it in really good style and I believe that's what climbing is about: how you do the climb. In good style. Everybody's attitude was really really good. Expedition mentality was incredible. John you have a good idea about what that means now. I hope friends and family at everybody's houses in New York and Wyoming and California and Massachusetts, I hope everybody supports these climbers on the way home and just take it easy on 'em when they get home because it's going to be a big change getting back to the real world after spending 20 days on a frozen mountain in North America. I'd like to say thank you to my family as well, my wife Kat and everybody else. This is our last cybercast, the 5th of June. We'll talk to you again real soon. You can follow another cybercast of mine on the 22nd of this next month as I go up the Buttress again with a new group.
6/4/03 9:40pm. 13,300 feet on Denali, AK. Nice Marmots.
Hello, Laurent Dick here with Alpine Ascents Denali 4. Pretentiously known also as "Nice Marmots." In order to fully understand this name you would have had to seen the movie, "The Big Lebowski." Another beautiful day at 14,000, we back-carried a load from 13,500. ate ice cream and trained for fixed lines. We just listened to a hug ice fall in the background here. We also watched some high altitude rescues from a distance. I wish to assure that all of us are safe and sound and we're looking forward to another beautiful day tomorrow.
6/4/03 12:45pm. 13,300 feet on Denali, AK. Flight Level 210.
Hello this is Flight Level 210, we are at 13,300 feet on the West Buttress, we just crossed over the Windy Corner, All eight of us are doing fine, we have a gorgeous day, not a cloud in the sky whatsoever, you can see all the way south to Anchorage and over the Peters Hills, 360 degrees, just beautiful visibility. We just pushed a load from 11,200 up here to 13.3 and we're all strong right now. We're thinking of pushing up to 14.2 tomorrow. We can't get reception out tonight so this will be our last reception.
Good weather forecast for the next couple of days so hopefully we'll be able to get up to 14,200 by the 5th and hopefully have all of our equipment, all of our food by the 6th of June at 14.2. Noah Katz wants to say hello to his mom, and want her to know he is wearing his hat. Tom Cooney says, "Al I did not send the tv out for repairs." Kenny Pokora sends all his love to Donna. Doug Butler says hi to Mother and Cheryl with all of his love. Last but definitely not least, Frank sends his love to Anita. Eric sends all his love to the women of Talkeetna. I give my best to my son and daughter Denali and Sequoia, I love you guys very much, I'll be thinking of you guys tonight and we'll try and contact you again tomorrow so from Flight Level 210 we're cruising on back home, see you later.
6/3/03 8:39pm. 14K Camp, Denali, AK. Nice Marmots.
G'day folks, this is Mike Roberts from Alpine Ascents Denali #4. It is Tuesday June 3rd at 8:30pm and the team has successfully completed a Camp move to 14,200 feet. Today is the third, not a breath of wind and lots of sunshine. This is a real gut buster of a day. Especially when you arrive at camp and find that there is no vacant real estate. This inevitably means a couple of hours of digging and sawing block to make protective walls for the tents. We have still to see which group name will come out on top, so for now we are nameless wanderers. Now its time for dinner, family and friends are very much in our minds, best wishes Mike.
6/3/03 5:00pm. 10,000 feet on Denali, AK. Flight Level 210.
This is Flight Level 210, we made a radio call yesterday, we made it up to 11,200 camp and couldn't get a message out to you all so everybody's fine we just went back to 10,000 to get our cache. We'll be back up at 11.2 and you won't be able to hear form us until tomorrow when we turn Windy Corner, we'll try again then. So to family and friends, everyone, we're doing fine, we'll communicate again tomorrow.
The weather right now is beautiful clear skies and fantastic traveling on the glacier. OK we'll talk to you tomorrow.
6/3/03 12:04pm. 14K Camp, Denali, AK. Wired and Ready.
Hi this is Peter Amantia calling from Alpine Ascents Group 3. It is Wednesday morning about 12 noon. We're getting ready to depart to go home. We're at Camp 14.2, we left high camp yesterday at about 1:00, it took us about 5 hours to get down. CeCe led, setting extra protection all the way down the ridge, and we went down the fixed ropes for the last time. Beautiful weather here.
We're looking forward to making a slow trip down to 7,800, waiting for the Kahiltna Glacier to freeze, making it safe to travel and making our way back to the landing strip and we should be back there at about 8:00 tomorrow morning to fly out hopefully. The weather is great. We have had only 3 days where we didn't see the sun at 19, we're all super happy. I just want to say hi to Mom and Dad and Andrew and all my family and friends that have been paying attention it helped a lot, very, very difficult climb, and knowing everyone was watching through the cybercast, it really helped. And of course Dominick and Ginette who are my two huskies who I miss and who I can't wait to see. Thanks a lot and bye bye.
Oh and finally, I think I speak for everyone here when I say that CeCe and Eric are just fantastic; the food making sure we were all hydrated, (we only had oatmeal two or three times) making sure we were motivated and really making sure everybody was safe. I think we're all real real thrilled to have had the opportunity to climb with both of them., Thanks again and bye.
6/3/03 12:56pm. Talkeetna, AK. Java Jellyfish.
Hi everybody, this is Java Jellyfish reporting in here with our last cybercast. All the group is down in Talkeetna and safe. Actually there's a lot of them that are on their way to Anchorage right now. Last night we had a big dinner together, group celebration and you know we were celebrating the completion of two of the three of our goals, the top two were having fun and getting everyone down safe, we did not end up tagging the top.
The last transmission that Java Jellyfish put in was that we turned around at Denali Pass and that was the final high point of the group. But everyone had fun and no regrets and all got down with all our fingers and toes and with smiles on our faces. The worst mishap was a little sunburn and blisters so we're happy and this is Java Jellyfish signing off to the cyberworld for the 2003 season. Hope to see all you guys next year, talk to you later.
6/2/03 6:02pm. Windy Corner, Denali, AK. Nice Marmots.
Hello everybody this is Laurent Dick, with Denali #4, and an update for June 2nd. We are currently at Windy Corner at about 13,000 feet we just made a carry up to 13,500 feet and cached a load. We are looking down at a sea of clouds at about 10,000 feet. It was pretty chilly coming up from our camp at 11,200 feet with temperatures around 20 below Celsius and winds around 30 kilometers per hour. We finally got some views of the Peter's Basin and the Tundra to the North. On June 2nd much of our day was spent at 11,200 camp as well as retrieving a cache at 10,500. In the morning of June 1st we were buried in deep snow drifts around our camp. The whole camp was engulfed by gusting winds and drifting snow. In the evening Mike Joe and I cooked up a much appreciated burrito feast and that's all for today. Best wishes to everybody out there, everyone is doing fine up on the mountain and we will get back to you probably by tomorrow, good bye.
6/2/03 4:50pm. Denali High Camp, AK. Wired and Ready.
Hey everyone this is Eric Larson with Team Wired and Ready. Today is June 2nd. We'd like to say that we had a great day yesterday, we had a break in the weather right after we posted our last cybercast and got on the trail to the summit around 1:00 and summited at 8:45. It was a beautiful day, pretty cold but no wind that was fortunate coming down in the alpenglow in the middle of the night, as Alaska has 24 hour daylight pretty much the ambient light reflects off of everything. It was a good descent and everybody returned back to high camp really safely.
Everybody's pretty exhausted, we slept in a little bit today and now we're slowly packing to roll out of high camp today. The weather is decent, it's mostly overcast with winds up to 10mph, but we'll get down to the ridge and down the fixed lines to the 14 Camp today and reassess to see where and when we can get out. The lower glacier is overcast completely so as far as flight s it doesn't look like there's anyone landing today. There should be a major crux with everybody trying to get out in the next couple of days. We'll call you from 14 Camp or the 10,000 foot cache and give you an update, give you an idea of when we'll be getting out and sending phone calls to loved ones. This is Eric Larson signing out.
6/2/03 1:33pm. 10,000 feet on Denali, AK. Flight Level 210.
Hello this is flight level 210 at 10,000 feet on Denali. I'll just go through the basic names we have Noah, Tom, Eric, Jeff, Kenny, Doug, Frank, and myself Marty. We want to let you guys know that we are actually fine, all of us, we are pushing our camp up top 11,200 feet here today which is the 2nd of June. Right now we are in whiteout conditions, we can only see about 100 meters or 300 feet. I have my team laughing which is good. What we want to let everyone know, family and friends is that we're all fine. We'll do a longer cybercast with everyone sending a message to family and friends probably tonight now that we are in range. The last four days we have been out of range, we just couldn't get the cell phone to connect up. Please be patient and we'll be you way in about four or five hours.
6/1/03 11:32am. Denali High Camp, AK. Wired and Ready.
This is Justin Adam, with a cybercast for Sunday. First I have a coded message, "DMC, LK, HD." Our team is at Denali High Camp. There are three low pressure systems stacked up southeast of us and we're trying to wait them out so we can walk up to the summit. The difficult terrain is behind us. Everybody is having a good time, holding strong and looking forward to standing on top of the hill. Goodbye.
5/31/03 4:28pm. Denali High Camp. Java Jellyfish.
Hello this is Winslow with Java Jellyfish, Team II. We're hunkered down here at 17,000 feet hanging out with Team III, waiting for a good opportunity to take another shot at the summit. Tomorrow is our last chance to get up and the group is anxious to either head up or head down and get out of here. Things this mooring were windy, cold and snowy. Temperatures were around negative 15 the wind was gusting up to about 40mph. So we've been hunkered down reading books, occasionally getting out of the tent to shovel things off and visit other tents. Doing a little work on our snow walls and hanging out. The group is in good spirits and everyone is looking forward to seeing their friends and family again soon, well talk to you again tomorrow, bye,
5/31/03 10:31am. 10,000 feet on Denali, AK. Nice Marmots.
Good morning, this is Joe Stock with the Alpine Ascents Denali Team #4 progress report for Saturday, May 31st. And the moment we're taking a brief rest at about 10,000 feet, We're on our way form the 8,000 foot camp to the 11,000 foot camp. The clouds and wet snow from this morning have cleared to a beautiful day. More sunscreen folks. Since our cybercast yesterday we descended in the blistering sun to Camp I. The afternoon passed quickly with eating, hydrating and napping and laughing in the shade of our tents. The polls have officially closed for our party name and the result is "Nice Marmots" Hey wait someone is demanding a recount. "Bob's Your Uncle" still stands a chance. Cheers family and friends.
5/30/03 5:06pm. Denali High Camp. Team Wired and Ready.
Hello everyone this is Josh Wittemore from the Wired and Ready expedition on Denali 2003. Today is Day 14, May 30th, we're up at High Camp, 17,200 feet and we have been enjoying our rest day with spectacular views of Mount Foraker and rebuilding our walls a little bit and resting and recuperating and getting ready for our summit bid. We're pretty happy with the situation and I just want to say hello to my mother, and to my niece Maggie, my nephew Ty, and all the rest of my family and I wish you all well. We'll talk to you soon thanks.
5/30/03 4:52pm. Denali High Camp, AK. Java Jellyfish.
Hey everybody this is Java Jellyfish calling in again from 17,200 feet. Sorry to report this call is not from the summit, it is from Camp. We got it up to Denali Pass this morning and made it to the pass, and it was 30mph winds, subzero temperatures, and just too cold to go up high. A few other groups went up above us and it seemed that everyone has turned back today. So unfortunately due to the wind and the cold temperatures, today was not a good day for the summit. So we came back and we;re3 just kicking back this afternoon, hanging out with the next Alpine Ascents group and looking forward to our next window of weather to give it a shot. The weather report is not favorable for the next couple of days but we're keeping our fingers crossed. So that's all for now from the Java Jellyfish this is Forrest McCarthy signing off.
5/30/03 10:30am. Camp I. Team IV.
G'day, hearty electronic handshakes to all you cybercasters out there. This is Mike Roberts updating you on the progress of Alpine Ascents Team IV. It's Friday May the 30th. Upon our timely arrival at Kahiltna Base Camp we were promptly engulfed in a two-day storm that brought about two and a half feet of new snow and very low visibility. Our first full storm day, Monday was spent training, Tuesday was spent storm-bound at Base Camp. We were all revved up an no place to go. Negotiating the crevasses of the lower Kahiltna Glacier in white-out conditions with deep snow obscuring the trail was not to be taken lightly. Wednesday was a beautiful day and enabled us to carry a load to Camp I. On Thursday we made our first Camp move to the base of Ski Hill, traveling in the early hours of the morning to avoid the intense mid-day heat. Despite the warm Alaskan wind below us, the Kahiltna Glacier appears to have seen quite a lot of snow overall as the crevasses are quite filled in.
Today is absolutely pristine and we are presently sunning ourselves on the upper Kahiltna after caching at 10,500 feet. While our group spirit is high, dissension does exist as to what our group name should be. The two nominations are 1. Nice Marmots and 2. Bob's Your Uncle. What's your vote? If you want to vote call Kristine Kitayama at 206-378-1927. Cheers for now.
5/29/03 7:49pm. Denali High Camp, AK. Java Jellyfish.
Hi this is the Java Jellyfish calling in for Winslow. Yesterday was the most challenging part of our journey so far with tonight and summit day still ahead. We moved form 14k to 17k and then spent a few hours building snow walls and setting up camp. We were all exhausted but in good sprits. From 16,200 feet to 17,000 feet is known as one of the best parts of the entire climb. The route climbs right along the West Buttress Ridge where it drops off on both sides, overlooking the Kahiltna Glacier on one side and the Peter's Glacier on the other.
From Camp we have had a beautiful view of Denali Pass and the many climbers heading to the summit. Tomorrow is our big day. We'll have to call in then.
Chris sends love to Brenda, Josh, Matt and Nicole. Steve sends love to Susan and Jonah. Kent sends love to Mom, Dad Kara (?) and Roxanne. Dave send his love to Sarah. And Jason sends his love ...(static)big 83 Chalupa and he misses you very much. That's all for now. Winslow and the Java Jellyfish signing out.
5/29/03 7:13pm. Denali High Camp, AK. Team Wired and Ready
Hello again everybody, this is Eric Larson, calling you from Team Wired and Ready, Alpine Ascents Team #3. We had a good day today. We moved up the fixed lines past Washburn's Thumb and are now camping at 17,200 feet, High Camp. The weather was pretty good today, we had some low level clouds that didn't really affect us, but they definitely are rising right now, so let's hope for some good weather that we can summit or we'll have to ride out some weather here.
Everybody did pretty well, it was a long day, we finally just settled in , we left at 9:00 and we just settle in at 7, so it took a while. We're definitely tired, but hopefully we'll take a rest day tomorrow. And summit the next day and get out of here. Team Wired and Ready is doing good. Everybody is geared up and excited to be at High Camp and let's hope the weather holds. The forecast is saying Saturday and Sunday for some weather that might hurt us for our summit bid, but we can ride it out for 7 days, because we have food and fuel for that long. We'll get back to you tomorrow on our rest day and let you know more about what is going on. This is Eric Larson signing off.
5/29/03 6:49am. Talkeetna, AK. Posh Pit Moshers.
Good morning this is Dave Morton with a wrap up for Team I of this 2003 Denali season. Last time we spoke was on Sunday and we had just returned from the summit the previous day and were at 17,000 feet and hoping to descend down and get out of the Alaska Range as quickly as possible, but that didn't happen.
We left on Sunday from 17 and went down to 14 and had a rendezvous with Team II and Team III and had a great evening, had 7 guides I think all at the same time which we think must have been a record for Alpine Ascents. We believe there were about 12 tents up and 24 people total or something like that. All three groups cooked some dinner together and had a great time.
Next morning we decided to get out of there, we were going to go down to 7,800 feet on Monday and then early Tuesday morning go from 7,800 feet to base and try to fly out. But as we left 14, we left at about noon on Monday, we encountered some pretty high winds, between 14,000 feet and the 11,000 foot camp and we had a true Alaskan experience, I don't think it will be a day that these people on the team will easily forget. Very high winds, but made it through without any problems and then descended from 11,000 feet down to 7,800 feet in a continuing storm and very low visibility but eventually made it to 7,800 feet late in the evening on Monday and because of the storm ended up staying at 7,800 feet for two nights, Monday night and Tuesday night and then got up Wednesday morning, yesterday, and hoofed it on into Base Camp.
Yesterday morning we woke up and it was a beautiful beautiful day, we were hoping that maybe some of our teams are in position to summit and it was just a gorgeous way to end our trip. We rolled into Base Camp early afternoon, got our flights out had a great dinner last night at the West Rib in Talkeetna and everybody has probably already been in contact with their family and friends so I just wanted to say thanks to John Colver and to the team for making this expedition a successful one, I think everyone had a wonderful time and it was a great group, every single one of them. Until next time this is Dave with the Posh Pit Moshers saying good bye and thanks to everyone out there who was thin king about us, bye bye.
5/28/03 4:50pm. 14K Camp, AK. Team Wired and Ready.
Hello everybody this is Eric Larson calling you from Wired and Ready expedition, Alpine Ascents #3, Today is Wednesday the 28th and it's about 5:00 in the afternoon. We just returned from a carry at 16.3 on the West Buttress fixed lines, everybody did really well. We had a break in the weather finally and it was sort of a mad rush to the fixed lines, the whole camp, I'd say about 75 people were all rushing to the fixed lines at the same time, so a lot of patience helped today but we got through it pretty quickly. We were one of the first groups on and got the cache up there, food and fuel for our summit bid.
The team's doing really well, we had a pretty good time going up and down, luckily we did it in the shade so it wasn't so hot and when the sun popped out it was definitely warm. Now everybody's recuperating and re-hydrating, eating a lot of food. We'll see how it goes tomorrow. We'll possibly be moving and carrying up to high camp tomorrow, we'll get back to you tomorrow afternoon and tell you what we did. Hope all our friends and family are doing all right. Eric Larson signing out.
5/28/03 2:51pm. Talkeetna, AK. Team V.
Hello this is Eric Remza with Marty Schmidt and we are Alpine Ascents Expedition #5 for Denali. Our Expedition name is Flight Level 210. Let me give you a little bit of background behind that name. We have a person on this expedition who is a commercial pilot and the name actually stands for the cruising altitude for commercial planes rising above 20,000 feet to 21,000 feet. So that's the significance of our expedition name. (For those of us who have not had our coffee, the summit of Denali is between those altitudes).
Let me introduce the members of our expedition: Noah Katz, Jeff Peck, Thomas Cooney, Frank Pirrone, and Kenneth Pokora. Let me give you our planned itinerary: right now it is Wednesday, May 28th, we are at the Talkeetna Airport and we'll be flying out to the glacier with our air taxi service, which is Talkeetna Air Taxi. We're very excited to actually get on the glacier. There has been some marginal weather, the last couple of days leading up to today, and we woke today to completely crystal clear blue skies. The view of the Alaska Range, primarily Denali, Hunter and Foraker, were beautiful from Talkeetna.
For the next few days is flying to our Base Camp which will be our camp for the next two days which is 7,200 feet on the SE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Tomorrow we will do a day of skills review, get everyone up to speed of how we will be traveling on the glacier, some crevasse rescue scenarios so we will be prepared when traveling on the glacier. Then we will begin our ascent of the mountain and that will begin with carrying a load from 7,200 feet to roughly 7,800 feet, that will be our Camp I. And then coming back to Base Camp and then moving to 7,800 feet. Then we will be moving a load or 'carry' to 9,500 feet which will be our Camp II, then moving into that Camp the following day. At that point we will probably have a chance to get on the cyberline. Before that the reception on the lower Kahiltna isn't too good. So look at getting another response from us maybe Day 4 or 5 from this call right here. After that we will be giving you a cybercast every day.
All of our members are very excited, all definitely send love and good wishes to their family and friends who are checking out the cybercast and I'm going to sign off. ciao.
5/27/03 4:37pm. 14K Camp, AK. Java Jellyfish.
Hey everybody this is Forrest McCarthy with Alpine Ascents calling in for Java Jellyfish. We're still hunkered down here at 14,200 feet, getting the full Denali experience of stormy weather. Reported winds up to 50mph last night, but we're hanging tight, got big snow walls built around our Posh House and tents and everybody seems to be doing really well keeping busy cutting snow blocks and socializing with the international teams here, we've got groups from all over the world here. No one has moved up or down from 14 in a couple of days now. There are a couple of groups at 17 hunkered down because they had some big winds last night.
We're just waiting for a good weather window so that we can move up. We've got our cache up there and everybody is acclimatized and looking forward to moving up the mountain. Sounds like we could be here for another day or so but we're just having fun reading books, playing cards and cutting snow blocks, this is Forrest signing out for Java Jellyfish and we'll talk to you guys tomorrow, goodbye.
5/26/03 8:50pm. 14K Camp, AK. Java Jellyfish.
Hi this is Winslow with Alp 2, aka Java Jellyfish. We've had a casual rest day here at the 14,200 foot camp. This morning the team rallied and built a snow wall around the Posh House to prepare for snow and high winds, which have now arrived. A few of us toured the camp to see the various snow sculptures and igloos around town. The Rangers invited us in for brownies. Yay! Boy do they have a nice set up with heaters and all. We had pizza for dinner and cookies for dessert, so our bellies are happy. Everyone's in good spirits. Our plan is to move up to the 17,000 foot camp when weather permits. The forecast is calling for snow and high winds through Wednesday, so we may be hunkered down for a few days. A special hello goes out from Chris to Emily his granddaughter. This is Java Jellyfish signing out, adios.
5/26/03 7:11pm. 14K Camp, AK. Team Wired and Ready.
This is the Wired and Ready Team reporting from 14.2. Greetings to all family and friends. This is expedition member John reporting. I'm happy to report that everyone is healthy and in good spirits. We're preparing our camp for some high winds tomorrow, cutting ice blocks and if the weather turns we're going to head up to Camp at 17.2. Last night the winds blew a lot it sounded like a freight train. While I know that everyone in the expedition is thinking of their friends and family, I want to say a special hello to Josie and Chucky and William I hope you're well. I am well. We'll talk to you all soon, take care bye.
5/26/03 12:22am. 14K Camp, AK. Team Wired and Ready.
Good evening this is Cecelia calling from the 14,000 foot camp on Denali. We are looking out at a beautiful evening, clouds filling the valley and the potential for a bit of weather coming in, though still not certain. Our team did a back carry today down to 13 and everyone's doing really strong. We spent the afternoon resting and enjoying the beautiful sunshine and we're in the company of all three expeditions here at 14. Dave's suggesting that perhaps that this is the first time there were 7 Alpine Ascents guides and 17 climbers at this Camp, pretty fun.
Exciting events for the day, we had a potential dental examination to be had tomorrow facilitated by Don Evans, the Head Climbing Ranger here, so that should be exciting. Other than than everyone is doing really well, quite excited for the upcoming climb. We all send our love and good thoughts to family and friends, we'll talk to you tomorrow.
5/25/03 2:59pm. Talkeetna, AK. Team IV.
Hi this is Mike Roberts with Alpine Ascents Team IV, we are in Talkeetna. It's a beautiful Sunday afternoon, lots of tourists around for the holiday weekend. In about a half an hour we will be boarding the plane and flying to the Kahiltna Glacier. We're expecting spectacular views on the way in there and it should be relatively warm on landing. We'll see what happens though in real events. So the three guides of this expeditions are Mike Roberts, myself, Laurent Dick from Switzerland Joe Stock who lives in Anchorage. And we have 6 climbers John Hill, Dave Wiley, Tim Archer, Brian Ballinger, Donald Bender and Doug Atkins . We'll be expecting to update you in several days when we are on the Upper Kahiltna, but for the next three or four days we'll be out of telephone range. So hearty electronic handshakes to all all you cybercast listeners, Mike Roberts out for Alpine Ascents.
5/25/03 10:52am. 17K Camp AK. Posh Pit Moshers.
Hello everybody this is Dave Morton with Alpine Ascents Team I. I am sitting overlooking 14,000 feet from the 17,000 foot camp. We summited yesterday on a beautiful day We haven't; been able to use the phone for a couple of days for a couple of reasons, but we wanted to give you an update.
A couple of days ago we moved up to 17 and Reed stayed behind with Team II, we all made a big move. Dave Rosen decided to pack it in on that Ridgeline between the top of the fixed lines at 16.5 and the Camp at 17.3 and so he and John Colver descended back to 14K and the rest of the group, Roy, Duncan, Alex and myself continued on to 17 and had a nice night it was a pretty windy day there were a lot of problems with frostbite (With other climbers) when we moved up to 17, there was one person who had to be evacuated, it was quite a windy day, a difficult move but we got up, set up camp in the evening and the next day was a perfect day so we decided to go for the summit, and it was one of the most beautiful days I'm sure, on Denali's summit that there has ever been. There was not a lick of wind, I would say that we had a couple of breezes at 1mph throughout the day but otherwise it was dead calm and we just had a beautiful time. Duncan, Alex, Roy and myself all went to the summit and got back last night at about 10:30pm. And now this morning we are packing up, trying to get rehydrated get some food in us, get all packed up and get back down to 14 where we can get reunited with the rest of our group who we definitely missed up high. We had a great time with Reed and Dave moving up to 14 and we'll have a great time moving back to Talkeetna with them, they were a great part of our team, we are sorry that they ended up at 14.
We're going to go pick them up and we'll be on our way out, we may spend the night at 14 tonight we may spend the night at 11depending on when we get there. More or less the most likely scenario will be to be in Talkeetna on Tuesday morning. We will all talk to you then and we will try to get another cybercast to you wherever we can on the lower glaciers of the Kahiltna when we get some coverage. To everyone out there we all send our warm wishes and everyone's safe and sound here, we'll talk to you soon, bye bye.
5/24/03 8:20pm. 14K Camp AK. Wired and Ready.
Hey everybody this is Eric Larson with Team Wired and Ready Alpine Ascents expedition #3. It's 8:20 in the afternoon, we're at 14.2 Camp, we just arrived this afternoon at 3:30, everybody did really well, it took us about 6 and a half hours to get up here, it was a nice slow day. Pretty warm today, the weather's been really nice, it hasn't been blowing too much, the forecasts are looking pretty decent but we have a lot of time here at 14 so we're just going to sit here and acclimatize. Tomorrow we go back to 13.5 and pick up our cache. Not much else is going on, we had a little bet rolling today, the whole trip actually, that Peter's cell phone wouldn't work, because he has AT&T, and I won the bet so he's not going to be able to contact anyone out there, but don't worry he's alright. We'll get back to you tomorrow and give you some more information. This is Eric Larson signing out.
5/24/03 5:55pm. 14K Camp AK. Java Jellyfish.
Hello everyone out there in cyberland, this is Forrest McCarthy with the Java Jellyfish reporting in from 14,200 feet on Denali. We got a second day today of rest day, we practiced our fixed rope skills along with back clipping gear, so we're all prepared to make this more technical climbing as we move our cache up to about 16,800 feet, tomorrow on the Rib of the West Buttress.
The plan is to get up early tomorrow and carry a cache of gear and food up to a place called Washburn's Thumb, named after Bradford Washburn, who did the first ascent of the West Buttress. Other than that glad to report that all team members are very strong and glad to see that Alp 3 come in to Camp today, Eric and CeCe's group, it was good to see all those guys, and they looked great coming in, they're doing really well. So this is Forrest signing out with the Java Jellyfish until tomorrow, talk to you then.
5/23/03 4:20pm. 14K Camp AK. Java Jellyfish.
Hello hello this is Winslow with Alpine Ascents Team Java Jellyfish, coming at you live from 14,000 feet. Today we hiked down to our cache, picking up the rest of our food and gear. It's been an amazing day, sunny and warm which is nice because it was cold last night. We watched two guys ice climbing up a narrow steep couloir just south of the fixed lines that we will ascend it looks fun.
Camp here is like a small village with snow walls and tents spanning the size of a football field with people from all over the world. Here at 14,000 is a bit of a turning point where the approach ends and the climbing begins. Tomorrow we will rest and enjoy the beauty and people surrounding us. We have views of Foraker and Hunter and there's crevasses, ice falls, and seracs that make great photos from here. We're staring up at the West Rib and the Messner Couloir watching climbers come and go. Dave sends a special hello to Sarah and as always much love to our family and friends. Java Jellyfish signing out until tomorrow.
5/22/03 6:12pm. 14K Camp AK. Java Jellyfish.
His this is Todd reporting in for Denali II and Java Jellyfish. We we just arrived at 14,200 feet the Camp right before the fixed lines. We all got here pretty tired but healthy there was some question last night whether we were even going to come today because the weather forecast was for some high winds and clouds We woke up this morning and it was calm a little bit overcast but we went for it and were rewarded with a great weather day, warm enough so we didn't freeze and cool enough so we didn't sweat. Windy Corner was in great shape. We had a little ice coming up Squirrel Hill. For the most part everything went well with the climb.
We pulled into the 14K Camp here the other Denali Alpine Ascents Group rallied and built us some snow walls so it made it easy we were able to fit three of our tents in there. All we had to dig was a site for the Posh Tent and one other tent so we're just now settling in and getting ready for sinner. That's all we have for now, we're going to go and back carry tomorrow we're going to go pick up the load we dropped which is probably about an hour, hour and a half walk from here and it takes a couple of rest days before we move up again. Signing off talk to you next time, goodbye.
5/22/03 6:09pm. 14K Camp AK. Posh Pit Moshers.
Hello everybody out there this is Dave Morton with Alpine Ascents Team I, The Posh Pit Moshers, It is Thursday May 22nd, about 6pm in Alaska and we are at 14, the whole team is together. It's a pretty nice day, been waiting for the storm to come, it still hasn't come, we had a few winds today and actually it looked like some pretty high winds up high on the mountain.
Today we wanted to update you on some progress. A couple of days ago we carried a load up to 16.2, John and Reed followed behind and made it up to about 15,000 feet and came back to camp. Yesterday we all took a day off, it was beautiful, lots of high pressure, we walked out to the Edge of the World, called in from out there and then today John and Reed went back up. We got Reed motivated to try it again to get up those fixed lines and he got up to about 16,000 feet and called it good.
The next team Team II rolled into 14 just a bit ago. So the rest of us went up the fixed lines, listened to the Rolling Stones on our mini disc player and built walls for the second team. So they were able to move into some beautiful walls. It's actually a pretty nice evening right now they just got their Posh tent set up and are about to start cooking a meal. The rest of us were not able to go summit this morning, it was a little windy and we decided to hold off. Now Reed is happily staying here with the second team and he's going to wait for us to try and go up and summit in the next two three days, and then we'll return to Camp at 14.
Everybody's enjoying themselves, everybody feels great we've been having a good time up here. The last three days at 14 have been enjoyable, lots of high pressure, good music, good food and everybody's getting a little antsy looking forward to moving up tomorrow so we will give you a call from 17,00 feet and weather permitting we'll be there tomorrow and then we'll be looking to summit Everyone here says hi. Duncan says Happy Birthday to his father today and we're also wishing the best of luck to the Alpine Ascents Everest Team who we hear is about to go for their summit push so good luck to all you guys, Vern Willi, Lhakpa, Luis and everybody on that team. This is Dave reporting for Team I and we'll get in touch with you tomorrow hopefully and for sure in the next two days bye bye.
5/21/03 3:53pm. 14K Camp AK. Posh Pit Moshers.
Hey everybody out there in cyber world this is Dave Morton with Alpine Ascents Team I, The Posh Pit Moshers. Today is Tuesday the 21st of May and right now I an standing out at the so-called Edge of The World, near the 14,000 foot Camp. I've got Duncan and Roy and Reed here taking a bunch of photos, there's a nice layer of clouds underneath us so it almost looks like we're floating on air.
The rest of the group is back at camp right now catching up on some sleep, we've also been fortifying our walls today for 'The Storm that Never Comes,' it seems. Every since we flew onto the glacier they've been predicting a storm from the Bering Sea within a couple of days and it never seems to come. Today was another one of those days, high pressure today, beautiful day with just clouds below, and a little wind coming in. They're now saying it's going to come tomorrow so we'll see. We're looking forward to seeing the second team if they arrive tomorrow.
And depending on the weather tomorrow we'll have a few different option for what we do. Everyone here is in high spirits having a great time. Our Camp looks beautiful, John Colver has been working on a little statuette this morning and everyone says hi to all their loved ones. Right now I am looking at Reed who is standing at the very edge of the rock outcropping at the Edge of The World looking down on the camp at 7,800 feet at the base of Ski Hill where we believe the third team is. We'll give a report tomorrow on what we're up to. Bye bye.
5/21/03 2:55pm. 14K Camp AK. Java Jellyfish.
(Due to poor reception most of this dispatch was unintelligible) The team reports that the weather has been getting warmer as they've moved up and there's A chance that they might spend another day at 11,000 foot camp. One of the team members sent the following message to a loved one: "I just wanted to wish Rupa (?) a good first week of work, thanks you." They will call again tomorrow.
5/21/03 12:00pm. 14K Camp AK. Team III.
Hey everybody this is Eric Larson with Alpine Ascents Denali Expedition III, Team Wired and Ready. It's Day 5 and we just carried up past our cache and we're moving our camp up to Camp II and it's roughly at about 11,000 feet. A little windy today, overcast, the winds are 10-15 from the North so it's bringing an Arctic Breeze for us. It's a good little trial for these guys to figure out what the Denali weather's going to feel like. But everybody's doing really well, they're strong, our time up here today was a lot faster than yesterday so I think the Camp at 11 will help them acclimatize. We should be there for three days. We'll get back to you tomorrow for another cybercast, this is Wired and Ready out.
5/20/03 8:11pm. 14K Camp AK. Posh Pit Moshers.
Hi this is John Colver with an update from the Posh Pit Moshers at 14K Camp on Denali. Today Dave Morton led the team up the steep and icy headwall to the ridge. Our cache is now in place for the push to the next camp which can take place in a matter of days. Potentially we are two climbing days from the summit of Denali. However the storm that has been predicted for the last week or so looks like it finally might be moving in tonight, we have clouds above, clouds below and the wind is picking up so everybody is resting after a hard day's climb and tomorrow we're going to take a rest day and then the day after that we'll see what the weather brings us and everybody's looking forward to moving up to the final camp in the next few days. That's it from Denali City and we'll update you in the next day or two. Goodbye.
5/20/03 12:42pm. Denali Camp II, AK. Team III.
Hi this is Cecelia Mortenson, calling in from Denali at just over 10,000 feet, to give our cybercast update. Eric Larson and I are having a great time sitting in the beautiful sunshine with our team, everyone is looking strong. We just did a carry and put in a cache. We would like to introduce ourselves as Team Wired and Ready. Our team members are Akihiko Suzuki from Japan, Josh Whittemore from Sunnyvale, CA, Armand Musey from New York, NY, Justin Adams from Kelly, WY, John Warfield, from Boulder, CO and Peter Amantia also from New York, NY.
We flew in under beautiful weather and the sun hasn't left us since. On the lower part of the mountain we took a rest day at Base Camp and went over skills crevasse rescue and then did a single push to get up to our 7,800 foot camp yesterday. Woke up to sunny skies again today and just pulled our carry. We are sitting here rendezvoused with the Java Jellyfish having a little picnic. Wishing everyone well, good bye for now.
5/20/03 12:33pm. Denali Camp II, AK. Java Jellyfish.
Winslow: Hello, hello this is Denali Team II, Java Jellyfish, coming at you live from Camp II on Denali. We have a poem for you today, here it goes:
So soon on the trip, it didn't take long,
For conversations to dip to the camp fire song.
Nice in the posh house from the laughter it pours,
You see sides of our teammates, each day we learn more.
The group is bonding in the honeymoon phase,
Forming a strong team for more challenging days.
So far its been easy with the sun shining down,
Living our dreams there's no reason to frown.
The mountains are glorious in every direction we can see,
There's a beauty that flows and sets our spirits free.
To all our friends and family, best wishes and love,
Java Jellyfish signing out until the next cybercast up above.
5/19/03 10:09pm. 14K Camp AK. Posh Pit Moshers.
Hi this is John Colver and Dave Morton with he Posh Pit Moshers. Today is Monday. Today was a rest day, however today's rest day was harder than yesterday's climb. We fortified our camp with snow blocks which we sawed and dug and carried all day. A jackhammer would have been a really useful thing. We now have a well-fortified camp and the weather Service tells us that there is a storm coming up from the Bering Sea in the next few days. Anyway that was our day tomorrow we are going to move up and cache gear at 16,200 feet at the top of the Headwall.
Here are some messages from everybody. Duncan says "Hi Folks, Joberg (?) is in heaven, feeling good and loving the views." Roy, with a message to Sky, says "Daddy wants to know what fuzzy bees do," And Dave sends love to Angela, "I hope the plumbing works out okay" Alex sends love to Julie says "I love you and miss you and special hello to Luke Hannah, May and Jack." And finally Reed, with a one-word greeting, "Boogah". So that's it from the Posh Pit Moshers and we will check in with you likely tomorrow, good bye.
5/19/03 2:40pm. Kahiltna Pass, AK. Java Jellyfish.
Greetings from Alpine Ascents Denali Trip 2, or better known as Team Java Jellyfish. reporting in from Kahiltna Pass once again for the second day arriving in good style with our second load. The experience and strength of our team is really showing, we have arrived at Camp every day in good style with lots of strength and energy, we've had great camps with lots of comfort. We want to introduce our team since we have not yet introduced our team and just give a little idea of what's going on here. We have Christopher Horsch and his brother Theodore Horsch who are keeping each other honest as only brothers can. We have John Drotar, John is a friend of the two bothers, who is very simple and complex and the same time, he keeps us laughing and keeps laughing at all of us. David Staiger, he's the strong silent one with the funny eating habits. Next we have Jason Sandrige, the baby of the group, who we reported yesterday, celebrated his birthday on the mountain. We have Steven Fox, who is the man of infinite knowledge and corny jokes. We also have the guides, Forrest McCarthy, Me, Todd Passey and then my wife Winslow Passey are the three guides.
We've had beautiful weather. It's actually hard to believe that we are on one of the coldest places in the world. Denali as warm as its been it's been downright balmy. We're sitting here at Kahiltna Pass in one layer, sipping water and laughing it up. Everybody on the team wants to send love to all their family and friends and we'll be checking in again with you guys tomorrow. Looks like we'll be able to have cell reception no through out the rest of the trip so there will be daily cybercasts from here on out. So check in with us daily, see you later bye.
5/18/03 8:30pm. 14,200 Foot Camp, AK. Posh Pit Moshers.
Hi this is John Colver calling in a cybercast from Denali with Dave Morton. Here's the evening edition of the news at 14,200 feet. We have 7 men of the Posh Pit Moshers Team looking rough and feeling good. We are now at Camp V, approximately 6,000 feet or 2,000 meters below the summit of Denali and the news from here is there's roughly 150 climbers ahead of us and only two have summited, which means it's quite hard conditions up on the mountain. We have seen a steady downward procession of people, it looks like they've wither been attacked by bear or beaten with a stick. So it's been pretty hard up there by the looks of it.
At Base Camp which is commonly referred to as Denali City, it's quite the international scene. Beside the Polish Team, there's the team of Russian hardmen who never seem to wear gloves, the Swiss, French, Korean, Japanese, Latvian, British, Canadian, and right now we are all awaiting the arrival of the all-girl Victoria Secret Team. So tomorrow we'll rest, then we will weather permitting, and god willing, climb up the headwall to 16,000 feet and cache supplies for the remainder of our summit push.
So that's it from the Posh Pit Moshers. At 14,200 feet on Denali, it's about 8:30 local time, in the evening here, and we're standing around eating turkey and stuffing some other things and it's pretty good. We had a hard days climb up today here, but we've got our Camp set up and we're going to eat, go to bed, and enjoy a rest day tomorrow. Good wishes to you wherever you are.
5/18/03 3:00pm. Kahiltna Pass, AK. Java Jellyfish.
Good day everybody this is Java Jellyfish calling in from Kahiltna Pass. This is our first chance we've been able to call in since we've been on the mountain. So far this is Day #5 and we've just been having a really fun trip. We celebrated Jason's 26th birthday last night with a peanut butter cup cake at Camp 7,800 feet.
The weather's been really good so far, the lower mountain has been in fantastic shape. Not too warm not too cool, crevasses all filled in nice, just some great traveling. We had a lot of fun lower down on the mountain there was a lot of stuff going on on the other peaks, we watched some extreme skiers skiing off Annie's Ridge. There were five parties geared up to climb the Moonlight Buttress on Mt. Hunter. And we also got to watch several parties climbing the Sultana Ridge of Mt. Foraker. Mt. Foraker is the second highest peak in the Alaska Range, it's native name is "Sultana" which means "Denali's wife." And Mt. Hunter is the third highest peak in the Range and it's native name means "The Child."
We'll be moving up here at Kahiltna Pass tomorrow, weather dependent, so far the weather's been really good, so we're looking forward to that. Other than that, that's all for now from the Java Jellyfish, this is Forrest McCarthy signing out.
5/17/03 7:15pm. Talkeetna, AK. Team III.
Hey everybody this is Eric Larson reporting to you from Talkeetna AK this is Alpine Ascents #3 Denali expedition. Everybody got in okay today we had a lot of work to do today. We had the gear check, went to the Park Service, got their orientation and we're at Talkeetna Air Taxi right now boarding up on planes ready to fly on to the glacier.
Everybody's pretty excited, everybody's a little nervous, I'm sure that friends and family at home are the same. But everything's going to be okay, we're going to take our time going up this mountain and have a lot of fun. So we'll get back to you soon enough and give you some more reports on how things are going. I would suggest people watching the cybercast to get a good idea of what the weather is. We'll get back to you for another cybercast in roughly three days since we don't have any cell phone reception for three days. So Day #4 of our trip we should get back to you with a new cybercast. Till then adios and we'll get back to you with a name. This is Eric Larson reporting from Talkeetna Alaska going to Denali.
5/17/03 7:09pm. Camp II, AK. The Posh Pit Moshers.
Hi this is John Colver on Denali with the Posh Pit Moshers. We are all doing great [Cell Phone transmission fails]
5/16/03 8:55am. Camp II, AK. The Posh Pit Moshers.
Good morning this is John Colver with the Alpine Ascents Posh Pit Moshers Team with an update before we move up the mountain. We woke up this morning to a complete whiteout our tracks from yesterday were all covered up a little snow on the tents a little breezy, a little chilly, but we're up and ready everybody is warm and set, strong and happy. We're going to set out in about 20 minutes here to move up, we're going to sneak up over the Kahiltna pass turn right and start heading east up to the camp at about 11,200 feet so we've got about 400 meters or 1500 feet to climb, and we're just getting ready to go so everybody's bundled up; full gore-tex and facemasks, goggles and glasses and we've got the map and compass out ready to find our way around this corner.
So a few quick messages from the group, Alex says, "Good day Julie." Duncan says "Hola Schatzi" Reed says "Hi Mom and Dad see you in two weeks," David says "Hi Angela, Mom, Dad and Paul" and Roy says "Love to Stephanie, Roy Jr. and Sky."
That's it from us we're heading up the mountain we'll be checking in again once we reach 14,000 feet, that'll be maybe in three days maybe a little longer depending on the weather and how we do, so that's it from here and I want to extend special wishes and good luck to to the Everest Team with Vern and Willi and crew, hope everything is going well over there. Out.
5/15/03 6:07pm. Camp II, AK. The Posh Pit Moshers.
Hello everyone out there this is Dave Morton with Team I on the Denali 2003 Season.. Our team from now on known as the Posh Pit Moshers. We just moved in to camp at 9,800 feet. It's about 6:00 Alaska Time and it's the 15th of May. Sorry we haven't gotten to you guys earlier, we've been having a great time the weather's been cooperative so far. Right now we're at the upper Kahiltna around 9,800 feet and it's an absolutely beautiful day, almost too warm for climbing. This morning we got up at 7,300 feet The day before that we carried up to 10,200 feet. The previous day we moved from Base Camp all the way to 7,800 feet to the base of Windy Hill in one push. So that was the 13th, the 14th we carried and 15th we're up at 9,800 feet.
Our plans for tomorrow are to move up to 11,000 foot Camp, to back carry our cache at 10,200 feet and spend the evening at 11. The reports so far say that the weather in the next couple of days is supposed to start to deteriorate. We've heard Saturday they're expecting 60mph on the upper mountain but so far the lower mountain has been beautiful and conditions are cooperating.
We were lucky enough to fly in on the one day they flew during a 6-day period of no flying. We caught the one break in the middle of that 6-day period of bad weather and got to fly in on our scheduled departure date so everybody's had a big sigh of relief that we made our arrival. We spent a night in Base Camp, spent the day reviewing and getting to know each and the last few days have been great.
Everybody's been doing really well, Roy Duncan, Reed, Dave, and Alex all say hi to everyone out there. Right now everybody's in their tents taking a little nap, we spent the last two hours putting in a camp. Early in the season it's hard to find any camps that have been established good enough for large floors. These guys have been working hard, each team member is really pitching in, making big walls and digging a really nice Plush Posh Pit. So anyway we'll try to speak with you in the morning, give you another update since this is our first official one. We'd like to call you tomorrow because tomorrow evening we won't be able to get any cell phone reception. For the next couple of days you probably won't hear anything, you will have a call when we get up higher on the mountain when we carry up to about 13,000 feet. But anyway hello to everyone out there, this is Dave Morton and John Colver for Team I, Alpine Ascent 2003 Denali Season.
5/14/03 6:00pm. Talkeetna, AK. Team II
Hi this is Winslow, with Team II. We have come up with our Team Name this morning, We are the Java Jellyfish. Java for our get up and go and jellyfish for the way that we flow. Things are going smoothly here as we pack up this morning our anxieties are leaving with the clouds and the excitement builds with the sunshine. The first part of our team has just taken off with Talkeetna Air Taxi and is headed to Base Camp. The other five of us are waiting our turn to hit the sky. Things are going well and we'll see you tomorrow.
5/14/03 5:42pm. Denali Camp I, AK. Team I
After landing on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, Team I stayed at Base Camp at 7,300 feet. They spent the next day reviewing glacier travel with sled and snowshoes and crevasse rescue techniques. They started their climb to Camp I today and everyone is doing great. The team will call in when they have better reception in the next day or so.
5/11/03 12:00pm. Talkeetna, AK
Team I has flown safely to the glacier. Dispatches begin soon...
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